WEBVTT

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[airplane engine drones]

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[shaker rattles rhythmically]

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[dramatic music]

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[leaves rustling]

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[bird cawing]

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[birds chirping
and leaves rustling]

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- [speaking Spanish]

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[dramatic music]

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[animals chirping]

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[airplane rumbling]

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[rhythmic shaking]

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[birds chirping]

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[plucked guitar notes]

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- 1981, THIS WAS THE FIRST TIME
I VISITED BOLIVIA.

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I WAS BACKPACKING
THROUGHOUT SOUTH AMERICA.

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I WAS 21.

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THIS WAS MY TIME TO BE THE HERO
AND NOT TO READ ABOUT THE HERO,

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AND I WAS DRIVEN TO THE REMOTE
AND UNUSUAL AND THE TRIBAL

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AND ROMANTICIZING ABOUT IT.

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AND ONE DAY,
A MAN IN THE MARKETS OF LA PAZ

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TELLS ABOUT
THE UNCHARTED AMAZON.

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SO IT WAS TWO OTHER BACKPACKERS.

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THE FOUR OF US
LEAVE CIVILIZATION

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AND PENETRATE THE REAL,
UNCHARTED AMAZON.

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[animals chirping]

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OF COURSE,
THERE\'S NO MAP OF THE REGION,

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AND WE\'RE TRYING TO HACK OUR WAY
AND FOLLOW RIVERS.

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AND WHAT INITIALLY WAS SUPPOSED
TO TAKE TEN DAYS

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TAKES A FEW WEEKS
IN A RAINY SEASON,

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WHICH, IN RETROSPECT,
WAS THE WORST IN TEN YEARS.

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TWO WEEKS LATER,
AFTER THE FLOODS,

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I JUST WAS COMPLETELY EXHAUSTED
AND I COULDN\'T WALK ANYMORE

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\'CAUSE MY FEET
WOULD NOT CARRY ME

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\'CAUSE THEY WERE JUST RAW.

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THERE WAS NO SKIN,
JUST FLESH EXPOSED.

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AND AFTER WEEKS ALONE,

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I FELT THE LURE OF DEATH.

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MY RESCUE WAS A MIRACLE

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WHERE KEVIN, WAS HIS COMMITMENT
TO ARRANGE A SEARCH PARTY

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WITH VILLAGERS
FROM FAR DOWNRIVER.

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THEY CAME INTO THE BOAT
TO HELP TICO NEGOTIATE

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THE CHALLENGES OF THE RIVER.

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NOW, WE\'RE TALKING 120 MILES
OF RIVER

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IN THE UNCHARTED.

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BY UNBELIEVABLE COINCIDENCE

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IS THEY STOPPED
TO TURN THE BOAT

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IN THE PLACE WHERE I COLLAPSED
THE NIGHT BEFORE...

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THEY FOUND ME.

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- MY LIFE WAS SPARED AND SAVED,

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BUT MY STORY AND CONNECTION
TO THIS PART OF THE WORLD

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JUST BEGAN,
IN FACT.

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I WROTE A BOOK
ABOUT MY EXPERIENCE,

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AND THE BOOK WAS TRANSLATED
TO MANY LANGUAGES,

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AND BACKPACKERS FROM ALL OVER
THE WORLD

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STARTED VISITING
THE BOLIVIAN AMAZON.

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-MUY VIEJO, NO?

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- THE YOSSI GHINSBERG BOOK
IS THE BIGGEST THING

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THAT MAKES ALL THE ISRAELI COME
TO SOUTH AMERICA

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TO THE JUNGLES

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BECAUSE IT\'S CRAZY.

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EVERYBODY WANT TO EXPERIENCE
THE LIFE OF THE JUNGLE

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AND SEE AND EAT AND SMELL.

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MAYBE HAVE A LITTLE TOUCH
LIKE IN THE BOOK.

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- I THINK IT\'S VERY DIFFERENT.

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HE WROTE THE BOOK IN THE \'80s.

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THINGS ARE VERY DIFFERENT
HERE NOW.

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OUR GUIDE SPEAKS HEBREW BETTER
THAN I DO.

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[both laughing]

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- ADIOS FOR NOW.

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[engine roaring]

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- I WAS WALKING ALONG AND
THE GUIDE JUST GAVE IT TO ME.

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SEE?
IT LOOKS KIND OF COOL.

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HE SAID IT\'S TRADITION
TO WEAR ONE.

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[engine rumbling]

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- COME FOR A SWIM?

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- I HEARD FROM MY FRIENDS IN
RURRENABAQUE,

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MAINLY TICO AND HIS DAUGHTER,
ROXANA, AND OTHER VISITORS

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THAT THE ENTIRE VILLAGE,
YOU KNOW,

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BECOMING A JUNGLE TOWN.

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PART OF ITS GROSS IS BASED ON
THE BOOK AND THE STORY,

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AND IT\'S AN INDUSTRY ON ITS OWN,

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AND DUGOUT CANOES GO EVERY DAY
UP THE TUICHI RIVER.

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EVERY GUIDE KNOWS THE STORY,

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AND USUALLY EVERY GUIDE MAKES
HIMSELF PART OF THE STORY,

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SAYING THAT THEY WERE THERE
THEMSELF AND THEY SAVED ME

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AND EMBELLISHING
AND EXAGGERATING

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AND, YOU KNOW, LIKE,
IN A VERY SOUTH AMERICAN WAY,

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ENJOYING THE ART
OF STORYTELLING.

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- IS THAT YOUR LINE, FRAN?

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- YEAH.
- I GOT IT AS WELL.

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- YEAH, YEAH,
THERE\'S SOMETHING THERE.

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- I FEEL LIKE ALL THIS AREA IS

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OVER TOURIST.

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EVERYTHING IS SO EASY HERE.

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- YOU COME IN;
THERE\'S 50 DIFFERENT COMPANIES.

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YOU KNOW,
EVERYONE DOES THE SAME:

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THREE DAY PAMPAS
AND FOUR DAY JUNGLE

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OR TEN DAYS JUNGLE.

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[boat engine hums]

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- WE DEPARTURE ABOUT 8:30,
OKAY?

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8:30 TO 9:00.

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TAKES THREE HOURS TO GO
TO THE MADIDI NATIONAL PARK.

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THE TOUR INCLUDE EVERYTHING,
OKAY?

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BREAKFAST, LUNCH, DINNER,
CAMPSITE,

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TRANSPORTATION, GUIDE,
EVERYTHING.

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- YOU GET A GUY THAT CARRY
ALL YOUR BAGGAGE.

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IT\'S NOT THE SAME.

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- YEAH.

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- YEAH, I THINK SO.

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I THINK YOU CAN IF YOU WANT TO
AND IF YOU HAVE THE TIME,

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BUT IT\'S ALSO EASY TO STAY
ON THE GRINGO PATH AND LISTEN.

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YOU CAN ENJOY IT,
AND IT MAKES EVERYTHING EASY

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AND FUN ALSO.

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[instrument rattling]

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- WHEN I HEAR THE WORD
\"THE GRINGO TRAIL,\"

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I THINK OF A DUSTY,
UNPAVED ROAD

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CRISSCROSSING
THE ENTIRE PLANET,

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WITH MANY DETOURS ON THE WAY

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BUT MOST OF THE SAME CHARACTERS.

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IT\'S THE BLUE HIGHWAY OF THE
GLOBAL VILLAGE, IN SOME WAYS.

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IT\'S THE ROAD PARALLEL
TO THE ONE IN WHICH

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PEOPLE WHO NEED TO GET
SOMETHING DONE ARE MOVING.

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AND IT\'S THE ROAD
FOR PEOPLE WHO WANT TO GET LOST

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AND WHO DON\'T NECESSARILY
WANT TO GET ANYWHERE,

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BUT FOR WHOM ALL THE JOY
IS THE JOURNEY

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AND NOT THE DESTINATION.

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[boat engine roaring]

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- BACKPACKER TRAVEL
IS PREDICATED ON THE IDEA

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THAT YOU\'RE DOING
SOMETHING DIFFERENT

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THAN THE MAINSTREAM TOURIST,

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BUT A LOT OF THEIR PATTERNS
ARE SIMILAR

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TO WHAT THE MAINSTREAM TOURISTS
ARE DOING.

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I DON\'T WANT
TO BE SNARKY ABOUT THAT.

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IT\'S JUST HOW PEOPLE END UP.

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YOU KNOW,
PEOPLE END UP SEEKING OUT

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CERTAIN MANIFESTATIONS OF HOME,
AND IN A LUXURY HOTEL,

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IT\'S GONNA BE
A NICE SHRIMP PASTA DINNER.

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ON THE BACKPACKER TRAIL,
IT\'S GONNA BE BANANA PANCAKES.

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- THERE\'S ALWAYS A SENSE
OF WANTING TO KEEP CERTAIN

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THINGS SECRET
AND PRIVATE AND...

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FOR ME AND MY FRIENDS...

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AND SOMEHOW,
THERE\'S AN OTHER SIDE OF ME

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THAT SAYS, \"WELL, I BELIEVE
THE PLACE IS SO GREAT,

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I SHOULD PROBABLY INCLUDE IT
IN THE BOOK.\"

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BUT I KNOW THAT IT\'S GOING
TO CHANGE.

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THE MOMENT I PUT IT
IN A GUIDEBOOK,

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IT\'S GOING TO CHANGE,
AND IT\'S GOING TO GET OVERRUN.

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IT\'S A HUGE RESPONSIBILITY.

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ESPECIALLY IN PLACES
LIKE BOLIVIA,

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WHERE TOURISM CAN REALLY MAKE IT
OR BREAK IT, IN SOME WAYS,

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I FEEL THAT EVEN MORE.

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- WE GO TO INSIDE
THE PAMPAS NOW.

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PAMPA HAVE DIFFERENT TYPE
OF SNAKE:

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ANACONDAS, COBRAS,
GREEN MAMBAS,

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RATTLESNAKE,
DIFFERENT TYPE.

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- OH, MY WORD.

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OH, SHINE A LIGHT.

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[laughs]

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- IT STINKS IS ALL.
- I\'M WALKING THAT WAY.

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- [speaking Spanish]

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[indistinct conversations]

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- [speaking native language]

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- [laughing]

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- WHAT DID IT FEEL LIKE,
TOUCHING IT?

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- IT WAS QUITE SMOOTH.

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- WHAT MADE YOU WANT
TO TOUCH IT?

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- I DON\'T KNOW.
JUST \'CAUSE I CAN.

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[laughs]

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- CAN I TOUCH IT?

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CAN I TOUCH IT?

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- IT REALLY BOILS DOWN
TO EDUCATING ALL TRAVELERS.

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WHETHER THAT TRAVELER IS
A WEALTHY INDIVIDUAL

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ON A LUXURY TRIP,

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OR WHETHER THEY\'RE JUST
SETTING OUT FOR THE FIRST TIME

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AS A COLLEGE STUDENT
WITH A BACKPACK ON,

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REMEMBERING
THAT PROVERBIAL CLICHE:

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WE ARE GUESTS
IN ANOTHER CULTURE.

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- SO I\'M WALKING ALONG THE SHORE
OF THE LUANGWA RIVER,

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WHICH IS A TRIBUTARY
TO THE ZAMBEZI IN ZAMBIA,

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ABOUT THREE FEET BEHIND
A GUY WITH A VERY BIG GUN.

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THE GUN IS BECAUSE THERE\'S A LOT
OF BIG ANIMALS AROUND.

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IT\'S BEEN A MAGICAL DAY
FILLED WITH THE CREATURES

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THAT INHABIT
OUR CHILDHOOD IMAGINATIONS.

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THERE\'S BEEN ELEPHANTS,
THERE\'S BEEN GIRAFFES,

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THERE\'S BEEN HIPPOS,
BUT WHAT\'S ABOUT TO HAPPEN

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IS A SMALLER CREATURE
IS GONNA HIJACK THE MOMENT

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BECAUSE AS WE\'RE WALKING ALONG
THE SHORE,

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WE COME UPON A PART OF THE BANK,
A SANDBANK THAT HAS COLLAPSED,

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AND IT\'S COLLAPSED
ON THE NESTING AREA

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OF THESE BEAUTIFUL LITTLE BIRDS.

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THEY\'RE RED
AND THEY\'RE SPARKLY

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AND THEY\'VE GOT
THESE TURQUOISE UNDERBELLIES.

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BUT THEY\'RE STUCK
AND THEY\'RE DYING,

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AND THEIR BEAKS ARE IN THE SAND
WITH THEIR TAIL FEATHERS

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ARE WOBBLING.

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THEY\'RE TRYING TO GET OUT.
THERE\'S DEAD ONES.

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THERE\'S BROKEN EGGS.

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IT\'S KIND OF A SCENE OF CARNAGE,

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AND I SAY TO MY GUIDE, JACOB,
I SAY,

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\"WE GOT TO SAVE THEM.\"

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AND HE SAYS,

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\"WELL, IT WOULDN\'T BE FAIR
TO THE SCAVENGERS.\"

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AND I SAY,
\"WELL, THEY CAN GET SOMETHING

00:16:46.167 --> 00:16:47.167
THAT\'S ALREADY DEAD.\"

00:16:47.168 --> 00:16:48.541
AND HE SAYS,

00:16:48.542 --> 00:16:50.791
\"WELL, MAYBE WE SHOULD LET
NATURE TAKE ITS COURSE.\"

00:16:50.792 --> 00:16:53.291
AND I SAY, \"YOU KNOW WHAT?
I\'M STUCK.\"

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IT\'S A MOMENT
OF CULTURAL CONUNDRUM.

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IT\'S WHERE
MY TRAVELER\'S PRIME DIRECTIVE

00:16:58.584 --> 00:17:00.791
IS JUST... YOU KNOW, IT\'S WHERE
THE RUBBER HITS THE ROAD.

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I DON\'T KNOW WHAT TO DO.

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I WANT TO BE SENSITIVE
AND RESPECTFUL

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TO MY LOCAL GUEST AND AUTHORITY.

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I WANT TO HONOR THE REALITIES
OF SURVIVAL OF THE FITTEST,

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NATURAL SELECTION,
ALL THAT STUFF,

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BUT EVERY INSTINCT IN ME
IS SCREAMING,

00:17:19.792 --> 00:17:21.875
\"JUMP DOWN THAT BANK
AND SAVE THOSE BIRDS.\"

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SO I DO IT.
I JUMP DOWN.

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I START DIGGING THEM OUT.

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FIRST ONE COMES OUT,
IT\'S KIND OF COMATOSE,

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BUT I RUB IT,
AND IT COMES BACK TO LIFE,

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AND IT FLIES AWAY.

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AND ANOTHER AND ANOTHER
AND ANOTHER,

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AND EVERY TIME THOSE BIRDS
GO UP INTO THE SKY,

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A LITTLE BIT OF MY HEART
GOES WITH THEM.

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IT\'S A GORGEOUS MOMENT,
AND IT\'S A MOMENT

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THAT YOU COULD NOT HAVE
CONVINCED ME WAS WRONG.

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I... IN THAT MOMENT,
I WAS DOING THE RIGHT THING.

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BUT A FEW YEARS LATER,

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THE MOMENT IS STILL WITH ME,

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AND I\'M NOT QUITE SO SURE
I DID THE RIGHT THING.

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[birds chirping]

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- [speaking Spanish]

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[sizzling]

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[dog barks]

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[footsteps crunching]

00:20:31.876 --> 00:20:36.374
- WHEN YOU\'RE TRAVELING,
EVERY SO OFTEN,

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YOU\'LL SEE SOMETHING
OR GO EXPERIENCE SOMETHING

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AND BE LIKE, \"WOW.

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\"THIS IS ONE OF THOSE THINGS
THAT I\'M GOING TO BRING

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\"PEOPLE BACK TO AND SHOW THEM.

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\"THIS IS A PART OF MY EXPERIENCE

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THAT I WANT TO COME BACK
AND SHARE WITH EVERYONE ELSE.\"

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AND THAT\'S... THAT\'S HERE...

00:20:50.667 --> 00:20:53.791
BECAUSE IT\'S JUST THAT AMAZING.

00:20:53.792 --> 00:20:57.208
THIS IS QUITE POSSIBLY COOLER
THAN MACHU PICCHU.

00:20:57.209 --> 00:20:58.501
AND THAT WAS COOL.

00:21:06.417 --> 00:21:09.417
- [speaking Spanish]

00:21:17.792 --> 00:21:20.792
[indistinct conversation]

00:21:37.792 --> 00:21:40.792
- [speaking indistinctly]

00:23:08.959 --> 00:23:11.959
[indistinct conversations]

00:23:18.834 --> 00:23:20.958
- NO.

00:23:20.959 --> 00:23:23.959
- [speaking Spanish]

00:25:14.209 --> 00:25:17.209
- [speaking Spanish]

00:26:28.792 --> 00:26:33.792
[all speaking French]

00:26:45.792 --> 00:26:48.791
- THE WAY THE TOURS THERE
ARE LED,

00:26:48.792 --> 00:26:51.291
THEY\'RE REALLY GEARED TOWARDS
BACKPACKERS,

00:26:51.292 --> 00:26:52.958
AND A LOT
OF TRAVELERS GO IN.

00:26:52.959 --> 00:26:54.833
THEY START NEGOTIATING
THE PRICE.

00:26:54.834 --> 00:26:58.666
THEY START HAGGLING, AND THEY
GET A CHEAP, LOW, LOW PRICE,

00:26:58.667 --> 00:27:02.416
BUT WHAT THEY\'RE NOT REALIZING
IS THAT BY THEM DOING THAT,

00:27:02.417 --> 00:27:04.750
YOU ARE ACTUALLY AFFECTING
THE ENVIRONMENT.

00:27:04.751 --> 00:27:07.333
YOU\'RE AFFECTING
THIS AMAZING ATTRACTION.

00:27:07.334 --> 00:27:10.791
SO YOU HAVE A LOT OF PEOPLE
JUST TRYING TO MAKE QUICK MONEY

00:27:10.792 --> 00:27:13.666
AND NOT REALLY CARING ON HOW
THIS IS GOING TO IMPACT

00:27:13.667 --> 00:27:15.791
THE NEXT GENERATION.

00:27:15.792 --> 00:27:18.959
AND YOU\'RE TURNING IT
INTO A TOTALLY NON-SUSTAINABLE

00:27:19.000 --> 00:27:20.458
TYPE OF PHENOMENON.

00:27:20.459 --> 00:27:24.041
- I THINK YOUNGER TRAVELERS
WHO MAYBE HAVE LESS MONEY

00:27:24.042 --> 00:27:26.625
ARE A LITTLE BIT MORE
FUNDAMENTALIST ABOUT TRYING

00:27:26.626 --> 00:27:28.333
TO PINCH EVERY SINGLE PENNY.

00:27:28.334 --> 00:27:30.959
AND THERE IS DEFINITELY
ONE DOWNSMAN-SHIP

00:27:31.000 --> 00:27:32.959
AMONG BACKPACKERS
THAT SOMEHOW,

00:27:33.000 --> 00:27:34.708
IF YOU\'RE TRAVELING
TOO COMFORTABLY,

00:27:34.709 --> 00:27:36.917
THEN YOU\'RE NOT HARD-CORE.

00:27:36.918 --> 00:27:39.166
IT\'S ONE OF THE CLICHES
OF THE BACKPACKER TRAIL

00:27:39.167 --> 00:27:41.791
IS THAT THERE\'S THESE LITTLE
PISSING CONTESTS THAT GO ON

00:27:41.792 --> 00:27:43.791
BETWEEN WHO SPENT
THE LEAST MONEY

00:27:43.792 --> 00:27:45.792
OR WHOSE CLOTHES ARE
THE MOST BEAT UP.

00:27:47.834 --> 00:27:50.834
- [speaking Spanish]

00:27:59.334 --> 00:28:00.792
- [speaking Spanish]

00:28:02.792 --> 00:28:04.417
- [speaking Spanish]

00:28:31.751 --> 00:28:33.208
- FOR ME,
IT WAS REALLY DIFFICULT

00:28:33.209 --> 00:28:35.750
IN HOW TO ACTUALLY COVER
SALAR DE UYUNI,

00:28:35.751 --> 00:28:37.708
AND I REMEMBER DEVOTING
TWO PAGES IN A BOOK

00:28:37.709 --> 00:28:39.791
ON HOW TO ACTUALLY APPROACH IT.

00:28:39.792 --> 00:28:41.374
THIS IS THE VERY FINE LINE,
I THINK,

00:28:41.375 --> 00:28:44.166
THAT I\'M WALKING A LOT
AS A GUIDEBOOK WRITER

00:28:44.167 --> 00:28:48.833
ON HOW TO ACTUALLY ENCOURAGE
SUSTAINABLE DEVELOPMENT

00:28:48.834 --> 00:28:51.583
OF TOURISM
AND, AT THE SAME TIME,

00:28:51.584 --> 00:28:55.791
HOW TO MAKE TRAVEL ACCESSIBLE
TO PEOPLE.

00:28:55.792 --> 00:28:57.666
IT REALLY NEEDS
TO BE DONE ON THE SIDE

00:28:57.667 --> 00:28:59.541
OF THE BOLIVIAN GOVERNMENT,
I THINK.

00:28:59.542 --> 00:29:03.708
SO INTRODUCING A WHOLE SET
OF RULES AND REGULATIONS

00:29:03.709 --> 00:29:05.959
THAT WILL ENSURE
THAT THE ENVIRONMENT

00:29:06.000 --> 00:29:09.791
THAT SALAR DE UYUNI ACTUALLY
REMAINS AS IT IS,

00:29:09.792 --> 00:29:11.708
BECAUSE I DON\'T THINK IT WILL
FOR TOO MUCH LONGER

00:29:11.709 --> 00:29:14.292
IF IT CONTINUES
AS WE\'RE SEEING IT NOW.

00:29:18.834 --> 00:29:21.583
- WHAT ARE THE LIMITS
OF ACCEPTABLE CHANGE?

00:29:21.584 --> 00:29:24.959
YES, THERE\'S AN ECONOMIC
OPPORTUNITY HERE.

00:29:25.000 --> 00:29:28.791
PLAN IT IN SUCH A WAY
THAT THE BEAUTY OF THIS AREA,

00:29:28.792 --> 00:29:30.791
THE ENVIRONMENT ISN\'T DESTROYED,

00:29:30.792 --> 00:29:33.541
THAT THERE IS AN ECONOMIC
BENEFIT THAT COMES IN,

00:29:33.542 --> 00:29:36.041
BUT NOT AT THE COST
OF DESTROYING CULTURE

00:29:36.042 --> 00:29:40.583
OR THE LAND AROUND
THIS PARTICULAR AREA.

00:29:40.584 --> 00:29:42.791
WHAT IS
OUR ENVIRONMENTAL FOOTPRINT?

00:29:42.792 --> 00:29:44.791
WHAT IS OUR IMPACT
ON THE VERY CULTURES

00:29:44.792 --> 00:29:45.917
THAT WE\'RE VISITING,

00:29:45.918 --> 00:29:48.541
THE VERY THINGS THAT, REALLY,
WE\'RE SELLING?

00:29:48.542 --> 00:29:49.791
AT THE END OF THE DAY,

00:29:49.792 --> 00:29:54.751
TOURISM IS ABOUT SELLING NATURE
AND CULTURAL HERITAGE.

00:30:03.042 --> 00:30:05.208
- ALL IN ALL, I\'VE BEEN
TO ABOUT 35 DIFFERENT COUNTRIES

00:30:05.209 --> 00:30:06.791
AROUND THE WORLD.

00:30:06.792 --> 00:30:09.708
AND SOMETIMES YOU REALIZE THAT
PEOPLE ACTUALLY LOVE AMERICA.

00:30:09.709 --> 00:30:12.416
THEY LOVE OUR CULTURE,
OUR MOVIES, OUR MUSIC,

00:30:12.417 --> 00:30:14.500
OUR TV, OUR MONEY.

00:30:14.501 --> 00:30:17.333
AND OTHER TIMES YOU REALIZE
THAT PEOPLE MAY NOT NECESSARILY

00:30:17.334 --> 00:30:18.791
LIKE THE U.S. AT ALL.

00:30:18.792 --> 00:30:20.291
AT LEAST, WE THINK SO.

00:30:20.292 --> 00:30:24.208
AND IT\'S NOT HIGH ON THEIR LIST
OF MOST FAVORITE NATIONS,

00:30:24.209 --> 00:30:26.583
AND YOU HAVE TO KEEP
THAT IN MIND WHEN YOU TRAVEL.

00:30:26.584 --> 00:30:30.958
WELL, AS A BLACK AMERICAN
WHO HAS A MULTIETHNIC LOOK,

00:30:30.959 --> 00:30:32.791
EVER SINCE I WAS A KID,
PEOPLE ALWAYS THOUGHT

00:30:32.792 --> 00:30:35.541
I WAS PUERTO RICAN
OR CUBAN OR DOMINICAN.

00:30:35.542 --> 00:30:37.833
AND THAT LIST EXPANDED
WHEN I STARTED TRAVELING,

00:30:37.834 --> 00:30:42.541
INCLUDE BRAZILIAN, COLOMBIAN,
VENEZUELAN, CAPE VERDEAN,

00:30:42.542 --> 00:30:45.791
AFRO-EUROPEAN, INDIAN,
FILIPINO.

00:30:45.792 --> 00:30:47.500
AND I CAN USE THAT
TO MY ADVANTAGE SOMETIMES

00:30:47.501 --> 00:30:48.625
WHEN I\'M TRAVELING.

00:30:48.626 --> 00:30:49.791
IF I WANT TO WALK DOWN
THE STREET

00:30:49.792 --> 00:30:50.958
AND NOT GET ROBBED,

00:30:50.959 --> 00:30:52.666
I PRETEND LIKE I\'M LOCAL.

00:30:52.667 --> 00:30:56.333
OR IF I\'M HARASSED
BY THE POLICE,

00:30:56.334 --> 00:30:58.541
THEN TA-DA, I\'M AMERICAN.

00:30:58.542 --> 00:31:00.416
WELL, I GO TO EGYPT.

00:31:00.417 --> 00:31:03.791
MY FIRST TIME IN THE MIDDLE
EAST, IN NORTH AFRICA,

00:31:03.792 --> 00:31:05.875
AND I FIGURED
I REALLY DON\'T KNOW

00:31:05.876 --> 00:31:09.041
HOW \"THEY\" FEEL ABOUT \"US,\"

00:31:09.042 --> 00:31:12.833
SO I FIGURE, HEY,
WHY NOT BE VENEZUELAN,

00:31:12.834 --> 00:31:14.458
[speaking with an accent]
YOU KNOW?

00:31:14.459 --> 00:31:17.124
SO I\'M WALKING AROUND TOWN,
AROUND CAIRO,

00:31:17.125 --> 00:31:18.125
LOOKING AT THE SITES.

00:31:18.126 --> 00:31:19.791
I GO TO THE EGYPTIAN MUSEUM,

00:31:19.792 --> 00:31:22.791
WHICH IS THIS AMAZING COLLECTION
OF ANTIQUITY,

00:31:22.792 --> 00:31:23.792
AND I COME OUT.

00:31:23.792 --> 00:31:24.792
IT\'S CLOSING TIME.

00:31:24.793 --> 00:31:26.082
I WALK TOWARDS THE GATES.

00:31:26.083 --> 00:31:28.166
THERE ARE THESE TWO GUARDS
WHO ARE STANDING THERE,

00:31:28.167 --> 00:31:30.791
AND THEY LOOK AT ME,
AND THEY BARK AT ME IN ARABIC,

00:31:30.792 --> 00:31:32.917
AND I\'M SHIVERING,

00:31:32.918 --> 00:31:34.541
BECAUSE THEY RAISE
THEIR GUNS UP...

00:31:34.542 --> 00:31:36.791
NOT TO MY FACE,
BUT AT LEAST UP ENOUGH

00:31:36.792 --> 00:31:38.208
TO MAKE ME NERVOUS,

00:31:38.209 --> 00:31:42.583
AND I SAY, \"I\'M SORRY.
I DON\'T SPEAK ARABIC.\"

00:31:42.584 --> 00:31:44.082
AND ONE OF THEM LOOKS AT ME,
AND HE GOES,

00:31:44.083 --> 00:31:45.791
\"AMERICAN?\"

00:31:45.792 --> 00:31:47.791
AND I GO,
\"YES, SIR.\"

00:31:47.792 --> 00:31:50.124
AND THEN HE GOES,
\"YOU DON\'T LEAVE.

00:31:50.125 --> 00:31:52.458
YOU HAVE EGYPTIAN FACE.\"

00:31:52.459 --> 00:31:55.875
AND I\'M THINKING,
\"LORD, HAVE MERCY.

00:31:55.876 --> 00:31:59.500
MAMA, I\'M COMING HOME
IN A BOX.\"

00:31:59.501 --> 00:32:00.501
THEN THEY LAUGH.

00:32:00.502 --> 00:32:02.208
[laughs]

00:32:02.209 --> 00:32:04.208
\"WE JOKE.
WELCOME TO EGYPT.\"

00:32:04.209 --> 00:32:07.833
[light drum music]

00:32:07.834 --> 00:32:15.834
♪ ♪

00:32:19.250 --> 00:32:22.917
[thunder rumbling]

00:32:22.918 --> 00:32:24.959
- WOW.

00:32:25.000 --> 00:32:26.333
SHOOT.

00:32:26.334 --> 00:32:29.291
I REMEMBER MORE
THE GETTING THERE

00:32:29.292 --> 00:32:32.792
THAN THE ACTUAL STAYING
IN TIMBUKTU.

00:32:35.959 --> 00:32:37.917
THE TRIP THERE
WAS SO EXCITING,

00:32:37.918 --> 00:32:42.291
BECAUSE WE GOT LOST,
BECAUSE WE GOT INTO TROUBLES.

00:32:42.292 --> 00:32:44.791
WE WERE IN A FLATLAND.

00:32:44.792 --> 00:32:47.374
SO THE WATER WAS JUST RISING
AROUND US,

00:32:47.375 --> 00:32:50.791
AND WE JUST GOT REALLY SCARED.

00:32:50.792 --> 00:32:52.625
AND WE JUST COULDN\'T WAIT
TO GET THERE.

00:32:52.626 --> 00:32:55.500
WE JUST... WE HAD THIS...
THIS ADRENALINE.

00:32:55.501 --> 00:32:58.208
I THINK THE WHOLE GROUP
WAS FULL OF ADRENALINE

00:32:58.209 --> 00:33:00.792
FINALLY GETTING
TO THIS TIMBUKTU.

00:33:15.751 --> 00:33:18.458
I CAN\'T REMEMBER WHEN I STARTED
HEARING ABOUT TIMBUKTU

00:33:18.459 --> 00:33:21.249
AS THIS FARAWAY PLACE,
MYSTERIOUS PLACE,

00:33:21.250 --> 00:33:22.791
THE END OF THE WORLD.

00:33:22.792 --> 00:33:24.791
AND IT BECAME IMMEDIATELY
ASSOCIATED WITH THE DREAM

00:33:24.792 --> 00:33:26.041
OF TRAVELING.

00:33:26.042 --> 00:33:28.416
AND SO WHEN I BECAME AWARE
OF THE FACT THAT ACTUALLY

00:33:28.417 --> 00:33:29.791
I COULD GO TO TIMBUKTU,

00:33:29.792 --> 00:33:33.374
IT WAS THE PLACE WHERE
I WANTED TO GO.

00:33:33.375 --> 00:33:36.791
THE REFERENCES I HAD,
IN TERMS OF IMAGES,

00:33:36.792 --> 00:33:39.208
WERE FILMS,

00:33:39.209 --> 00:33:43.751
LIKE OUT OF AFRICA,
LAWRENCE OF ARABIA.

00:33:53.542 --> 00:33:55.708
WE STAYED THE NIGHT
IN THIS VILLAGE,

00:33:55.709 --> 00:33:58.875
AND WE SEEMED LIKE
WE WERE NEVER GONNA GET THERE.

00:33:58.876 --> 00:34:01.791
THE TIME IT TOOK US TO GET TO
THAT VILLAGE WAS,

00:34:01.792 --> 00:34:03.959
IN MY MEMORIES, ENDLESS.

00:34:04.000 --> 00:34:06.458
AND I JUST REMEMBER LYING THERE
AND COVERING MYSELF

00:34:06.459 --> 00:34:09.875
AND LOOKING UP
AT THE STARRY SKY.

00:34:09.876 --> 00:34:12.876
[birds chirping]

00:34:23.667 --> 00:34:24.959
[knocking]

00:34:25.000 --> 00:34:26.583
- DID YOU SLEEP GOOD?
[laughs]

00:34:26.584 --> 00:34:29.124
[rooster crows]
- DID YOU?

00:34:29.125 --> 00:34:31.500
- FUCK, IT WAS UNCOMFORTABLE.
- THAT MOON WAS SO BRIGHT.

00:34:31.501 --> 00:34:34.791
- IT WAS UNBELIEVABLE TO ME.
IT WAS SO BRIGHT.

00:34:34.792 --> 00:34:37.791
[rooster crows]

00:34:37.792 --> 00:34:40.875
- THIS IS A CONCERT.
- OH, YEAH, THE MORNING CALLS.

00:34:40.876 --> 00:34:43.166
[rooster crows]

00:34:43.167 --> 00:34:45.959
- WHAT REALLY MADE ME THINK
ABOUT WHAT I WAS DOING THERE

00:34:46.000 --> 00:34:48.708
WAS THE QUESTIONS I WAS ASKED.

00:34:48.709 --> 00:34:53.791
I WAS ASKED QUITE OFTEN
BY REALLY DIVERSE PEOPLE,

00:34:53.792 --> 00:34:54.792
\"WHY ARE YOU HERE?

00:34:54.793 --> 00:34:56.791
WHAT ARE YOU DOING HERE?\"

00:34:56.792 --> 00:34:59.875
AND THIS WAS REALLY DIFFICULT
TO ANSWER.

00:34:59.876 --> 00:35:02.791
THIS IS WHAT REALLY MADE ME
THINK ABOUT THINGS HERE.

00:35:02.792 --> 00:35:05.791
AND I REMEMBER LOOKING
AT SOME LAND

00:35:05.792 --> 00:35:07.791
AND SAYING TO JIMENO,
\"THIS LAND IS BEAUTIFUL.

00:35:07.792 --> 00:35:10.750
LOOK AT THAT,
AND THE COLOR OF THIS LAND,\"

00:35:10.751 --> 00:35:12.500
AND THIS GIRL EVEN SAID TO ME,

00:35:12.501 --> 00:35:13.917
\"BUT WHAT DO YOU MEAN
IT\'S BEAUTIFUL?

00:35:13.918 --> 00:35:16.791
\"THIS IS NOT BEAUTIFUL.
LOOK, NOTHING GROWS THERE.

00:35:16.792 --> 00:35:20.500
\"THIS IS SO DRY.
THIS IS LIKE ARID LAND.

00:35:20.501 --> 00:35:22.959
\"IT CAN\'T FEED US.
IT CAN\'T GROW ANYTHING GOOD.

00:35:23.000 --> 00:35:25.166
WHY IS IT BEAUTIFUL?\"

00:35:25.167 --> 00:35:27.833
AND THAT MADE ME FEEL
SO STUPID.

00:35:27.834 --> 00:35:30.791
AND IT REALLY HIT ME
THAT I SHOULD BE THINKING ABOUT

00:35:30.792 --> 00:35:32.501
A LOT MORE THAN I WAS.

00:35:45.459 --> 00:35:47.333
- ALL OF US ALIVE NOW,

00:35:47.334 --> 00:35:49.374
ESPECIALLY THOSE OF US
IN THE PRIVILEGED WORLD,

00:35:49.375 --> 00:35:50.750
ARE SITTING ON THIS OPPORTUNITY

00:35:50.751 --> 00:35:52.708
THAT WAS UNIMAGINABLE
TO OUR GRANDPARENTS.

00:35:52.709 --> 00:35:54.041
WHEN MY GRANDPARENTS WERE
GROWING UP,

00:35:54.042 --> 00:35:55.166
NOT VERY LONG AGO,

00:35:55.167 --> 00:35:57.374
THEY WOULD LOOK WISTFULLY
ON THE MAP

00:35:57.375 --> 00:36:00.041
OR THROUGH THEIR NEWSPAPER
AT BOLIVIA OR AFRICA

00:36:00.042 --> 00:36:01.583
OR EVEN THAILAND

00:36:01.584 --> 00:36:04.708
AND NEVER DREAM OF BEING ABLE
TO SEE THOSE COUNTRIES

00:36:04.709 --> 00:36:06.291
OR EVEN MEET PEOPLE
FROM THOSE COUNTRIES.

00:36:06.292 --> 00:36:08.333
AND SUDDENLY,
THE WORLD IS OPEN TO US

00:36:08.334 --> 00:36:11.333
AS IT\'S NEVER BEEN
TO HUMANITY BEFORE.

00:36:11.334 --> 00:36:14.500
THE GREAT BLESSING OF TRAVEL,
TOO, IS THAT IT THROWS YOU

00:36:14.501 --> 00:36:16.666
INTO THE KIND OF SITUATIONS
YOU WOULD NEVER CONFRONT

00:36:16.667 --> 00:36:17.917
IN YOUR DAY-TO-DAY LIFE,

00:36:17.918 --> 00:36:21.625
AND IT KIND OF PITCHES YOU INTO
A MORAL AND EMOTIONAL MINEFIELD.

00:36:21.626 --> 00:36:24.791
AND THE MAIN SOUVENIR OF TRAVEL
FOR ME

00:36:24.792 --> 00:36:27.458
ARE ALL THE QUESTIONS UNANSWERED
AND UNANSWERABLE

00:36:27.459 --> 00:36:28.875
THAT I BRING BACK.

00:36:28.876 --> 00:36:31.791
[all speaking foreign language]

00:36:31.792 --> 00:36:34.333
- WE GOT THERE, AND THERE WASN\'T
VERY MUCH THERE,

00:36:34.334 --> 00:36:36.833
AND I COULDN\'T REALLY EXPLAIN
THE MYTH AROUND TIMBUKTU

00:36:36.834 --> 00:36:40.501
AS A TRAVEL DESTINATION
ONCE I ACTUALLY GOT THERE.

00:36:41.959 --> 00:36:45.041
IT\'S A VERY BEAUTIFUL PLACE

00:36:45.042 --> 00:36:49.374
BUT NOT THAT DIFFERENT
FROM OTHER CITIES IN MALI.

00:36:49.375 --> 00:36:54.625
AND IT WAS EMPTY
AND DESOLATE AND POOR.

00:36:54.626 --> 00:36:56.291
I WAS THERE,
AND I HAD NOTHING TO DO.

00:36:56.292 --> 00:36:57.708
I HAD NOTHING TO BRING.

00:36:57.709 --> 00:36:59.625
I COULDN\'T HELP IN ANY WAY.

00:36:59.626 --> 00:37:01.791
I DIDN\'T HAVE A ROLE, REALLY.

00:37:01.792 --> 00:37:04.791
YOU KNOW, WE\'RE JUST TRAVELING.

00:37:04.792 --> 00:37:07.750
WE QUICKLY REALIZED THERE WASN\'T
THAT MUCH TO VISIT IN TOWN,

00:37:07.751 --> 00:37:10.334
SO WE THOUGHT,
\"LET\'S GO TO THE DESERT.\"

00:37:15.959 --> 00:37:17.541
WE WENT TO THE MAIN MARKET

00:37:17.542 --> 00:37:20.166
AND KIND OF HAGGLED OUR WAY
TO A CAMEL TRIP.

00:37:20.167 --> 00:37:21.750
AND WE WERE VERY EXCITED
ABOUT THAT.

00:37:21.751 --> 00:37:24.751
- [speaking indistinctly]

00:37:27.792 --> 00:37:30.791
[seat squeaking]

00:37:30.792 --> 00:37:33.791
- WE ALL GOT ON OUR CAMELS
AND TOOK HOURS AND HOURS

00:37:33.792 --> 00:37:36.124
TO GO THROUGH THE DESERT
UNDER THE SUN,

00:37:36.125 --> 00:37:38.416
AND CAMEL TRAVELING IS NOT
THE MOST COMFORTABLE

00:37:38.417 --> 00:37:39.791
TRAVELING EVER.

00:37:39.792 --> 00:37:42.792
[seat squeaking]

00:37:50.209 --> 00:37:53.209
- [speaking French]

00:38:06.876 --> 00:38:09.374
- THEY TOOK US TO THIS PLACE
IN AMONGST THE DUNES,

00:38:09.375 --> 00:38:11.208
AND IT WAS AMAZING,
AND WE SLEPT THERE,

00:38:11.209 --> 00:38:12.958
AND IT WAS SOMETHING
OUT OF A DREAM.

00:38:12.959 --> 00:38:15.541
WE ALWAYS DREAMED OF SLEEPING
IN THE MIDDLE OF THE DESERT

00:38:15.542 --> 00:38:16.791
UNDER THE STARS,

00:38:16.792 --> 00:38:19.583
AND IT WAS ONLY, LIKE,
WHEN IT GOT REALLY DARK

00:38:19.584 --> 00:38:21.791
THAT WE STARTED SEEING SOME
LIGHTS IN THE BACKGROUND...

00:38:21.792 --> 00:38:24.791
I MEAN, IN THE...
FAR AWAY ON THE HORIZON.

00:38:24.792 --> 00:38:27.791
NOT EVEN ON THE HORIZON.
IT WAS CLOSER THAN THAT.

00:38:27.792 --> 00:38:30.416
SO WE STARTED QUESTIONING
THE PEOPLE WHO TOOK US THERE

00:38:30.417 --> 00:38:32.791
WHAT THE LIGHTS WERE.

00:38:32.792 --> 00:38:34.791
THEY DIDN\'T UNDERSTAND,
\'CAUSE THEY JUST...

00:38:34.792 --> 00:38:37.112
THEY DIDN\'T UNDERSTAND WHAT THEY
DIDN\'T WANT TO UNDERSTAND.

00:38:42.167 --> 00:38:45.167
[fire crackling]

00:38:47.167 --> 00:38:50.167
- [speaking French]

00:39:02.667 --> 00:39:05.791
- THE NEXT MORNING,
OFF WE GO BACK TO TIMBUKTU,

00:39:05.792 --> 00:39:08.082
AND THAT\'S THE END OF OUR TRIP.

00:39:08.083 --> 00:39:09.917
IT TOOK US ABOUT FIVE MINUTES
ON THE CAMEL

00:39:09.918 --> 00:39:11.166
TO GO BACK TO TIMBUKTU,

00:39:11.167 --> 00:39:12.791
AND WE REALIZED
WE WERE BASICALLY

00:39:12.792 --> 00:39:15.416
AT THE BACK OF THE TOWN,
ONLY THERE WERE, LIKE,

00:39:15.417 --> 00:39:17.458
DUNES IN THE MIDDLE
BETWEEN US AND TIMBUKTU,

00:39:17.459 --> 00:39:19.416
AND WE COULDN\'T SEE IT,

00:39:19.417 --> 00:39:21.208
AND THAT WAS QUITE FUNNY.

00:39:21.209 --> 00:39:22.791
WE WENT CAMEL CAMPING.

00:39:22.792 --> 00:39:25.042
[laughing]

00:39:28.209 --> 00:39:31.291
- AS TRAVELERS, WE SEEK
AUTHENTICITY SO DESPERATELY

00:39:31.292 --> 00:39:35.458
THAT HOST COMMUNITIES
WILL STAGE AUTHENTICITY

00:39:35.459 --> 00:39:38.958
BECAUSE IT\'S ECONOMICALLY
ADVANTAGEOUS FOR THEM...

00:39:38.959 --> 00:39:41.583
THAT FOR SOME REASON,
AS SOON AS MODERNITY KICKED IN,

00:39:41.584 --> 00:39:43.791
THAT SORT OF DISLOCATED
MIDDLE-CLASS PEOPLE

00:39:43.792 --> 00:39:46.625
HAVE TO LOOK TO POOR PEOPLE
FOR MANIFESTATIONS

00:39:46.626 --> 00:39:49.875
OF WHAT ONE THINKS AUTHENTICITY
IS SUPPOSED TO BE.

00:39:49.876 --> 00:39:53.958
AND IT\'S SORT OF A NATIONAL
GEOGRAPHICCOVER SHOT.

00:39:53.959 --> 00:39:56.500
- TIMBUKTU IS, AS A DESTINATION,
IS GOOD VALUE,

00:39:56.501 --> 00:39:58.583
BECAUSE YOU CAN ALWAYS PUT IT
OUT IN CONVERSATION

00:39:58.584 --> 00:40:00.791
AND HAVE THE ATTENTION
THAT YOU WOULDN\'T HAVE

00:40:00.792 --> 00:40:02.708
WITH ANY OTHER DESTINATION.

00:40:02.709 --> 00:40:05.208
YOU WOULD SAY,
\"OH,\" JUST DROP IT THERE.

00:40:05.209 --> 00:40:07.208
\"I\'VE BEEN TO TIMBUKTU,\"
AND YOU WOULD GET,

00:40:07.209 --> 00:40:10.709
\"OH, MY GOD,\" AND YOU KNOW,
THE MYTH LIVES ON.

00:40:24.876 --> 00:40:27.791
- YOU KNOW, WHEN I FIRST SET OUT
TO TRAVEL,

00:40:27.792 --> 00:40:30.458
THERE WERE TWO THINGS
THAT WERE ON MY MIND.

00:40:30.459 --> 00:40:33.541
ONE WAS I HAD THIS FEAR
THAT I HAD MISSED IT ALREADY.

00:40:33.542 --> 00:40:35.333
YOU KNOW, I\'D BEEN READING ALL
THESE BOOKS,

00:40:35.334 --> 00:40:36.958
SIR RICHARD BURTON\'S
EARLY TRAVELS,

00:40:36.959 --> 00:40:38.959
ALL THESE 18TH-CENTURY
TRAVELERS.

00:40:39.000 --> 00:40:40.791
AND I FELT LIKE,
\"GOODNESS GRACIOUS,

00:40:40.792 --> 00:40:43.333
I WAS BORN A HUNDRED YEARS
TOO LATE.\"

00:40:43.334 --> 00:40:45.791
AND SO THE STORIES I CARRIED
BACK FROM ME

00:40:45.792 --> 00:40:48.791
WHEN I FIRST STARTED TRAVELING
WERE REALLY FOCUSED AROUND

00:40:48.792 --> 00:40:51.625
REMOTE PLACES,
UNSPOILED PLACES,

00:40:51.626 --> 00:40:53.500
PLACE WHERE PEOPLE
HADN\'T GONE YET.

00:40:53.501 --> 00:40:54.791
THAT\'S WHAT I WAS LOOKING FOR.

00:40:54.792 --> 00:40:56.792
THAT\'S WHAT I WAS TRYING
TO GET TO.

00:41:10.751 --> 00:41:11.917
I WAS 21 YEARS OLD,

00:41:11.918 --> 00:41:14.541
AND I WAS BACKPACKING
FOR A COUPLE OF YEARS,

00:41:14.542 --> 00:41:16.791
AND I WAS GETTING TIRED
OF THE HERD MENTALITY...

00:41:16.792 --> 00:41:20.082
THE TENDENCY OF BACKPACKERS
TO STAY ON THE SAME ROUTE

00:41:20.083 --> 00:41:22.416
AND JUST KEEP FOLLOWING
EACH OTHER.

00:41:22.417 --> 00:41:25.791
SO I JUST WANTED TO GET AWAY
FROM IT ALL,

00:41:25.792 --> 00:41:28.959
AND I WAS HOPING TO FIND
SOMEPLACE UNSPOILED.

00:41:32.584 --> 00:41:33.791
I HAD HEARD ABOUT THIS ISLAND

00:41:33.792 --> 00:41:36.124
CALLED KO SAMUI
IN SOUTHERN THAILAND,

00:41:36.125 --> 00:41:38.583
WHICH IS JUST THIS ISLAND
IN THE MIDDLE OF NOWHERE.

00:41:38.584 --> 00:41:42.458
THIS IS BACK IN 1979.

00:41:42.459 --> 00:41:44.791
AND I GOT ON THE BOAT,

00:41:44.792 --> 00:41:47.208
AND AS KO SAMUI CAME INTO VIEW

00:41:47.209 --> 00:41:49.291
AND WE PULLED UP TO THE DOCK...

00:41:49.292 --> 00:41:51.875
AND THERE WERE SOME BACKPACKERS
ON THE BOAT, MIND YOU.

00:41:51.876 --> 00:41:56.208
NOT THAT MANY,
PROBABLY ABOUT 12 OR 15 PEOPLE.

00:41:56.209 --> 00:42:00.291
BUT ON THE DOCK, THERE WERE
ABOUT 6 THAI GUYS THERE,

00:42:00.292 --> 00:42:01.791
\"COME STAY AT MY BUNGALOW.

00:42:01.792 --> 00:42:03.958
\"COME STAY AT,
YOU KNOW, MY PLACE

00:42:03.959 --> 00:42:05.333
\"AND EAT AT THIS RESTAURANT.

00:42:05.334 --> 00:42:08.791
I\'LL TAKE YOU TO A GOOD PLACE
TO STAY.\"

00:42:08.792 --> 00:42:11.374
AND I WAS SO DISAPPOINTED,
I WAS, LIKE,

00:42:11.375 --> 00:42:13.500
\"NO,\" YOU KNOW,
\"I DON\'T WANT THIS ANYMORE.\"

00:42:13.501 --> 00:42:15.082
SO I WENT TO
THE CAPTAIN OF THE BOAT

00:42:15.083 --> 00:42:17.959
AND I SAID,
\"WHERE DO YOU GO NEXT?\"

00:42:18.000 --> 00:42:19.791
AND HE NODDED HIS HEAD
LIKE THAT,

00:42:19.792 --> 00:42:23.458
AND I LOOKED UP, AND I SAW
THIS ISLAND ON THE HORIZON.

00:42:23.459 --> 00:42:24.666
AND I SAID,
\"WHAT\'S THAT?\"

00:42:24.667 --> 00:42:26.458
HE SAID,
\"KOH PHANGAN.\"

00:42:26.459 --> 00:42:29.208
AND I SAID,
\"I WANT TO GO TO KOH PHANGAN.\"

00:42:29.209 --> 00:42:30.791
AND HE SAID TO ME,
\"NO, NO, NO, NO.

00:42:30.792 --> 00:42:32.416
\"NO TOURISTS KOH PHANGAN.

00:42:32.417 --> 00:42:33.791
NOTHING FOR YOU.\"

00:42:33.792 --> 00:42:35.791
\"BUT YOU DON\'T UNDERSTAND,\"
I SAID TO HIM.

00:42:35.792 --> 00:42:37.208
\"I WANT NOTHING.

00:42:37.209 --> 00:42:39.208
I\'M LOOKING FOR NOTHING.\"

00:42:39.209 --> 00:42:40.791
AND ALL THE BACKPACKERS GOT OFF.

00:42:40.792 --> 00:42:42.875
WE SAILED OVER TO KOH PHANGAN,

00:42:42.876 --> 00:42:44.750
AND I GOT OFF THE BOAT,

00:42:44.751 --> 00:42:45.791
PUT ON MY BACKPACK,

00:42:45.792 --> 00:42:48.166
AND I STARTED WALKING.

00:42:48.167 --> 00:42:52.708
AND I WALKED BY THAI FISHERMEN
AND SOME SMALL THAI HUTS.

00:42:52.709 --> 00:42:54.833
THERE WERE A COUPLE OF YOUNG
GIRLS AND THEY LOOKED UP,

00:42:54.834 --> 00:42:56.374
AND THEY SCREAMED
WHEN THEY SAW ME,

00:42:56.375 --> 00:42:58.500
AND THEY RAN.

00:42:58.501 --> 00:43:00.791
AND I JUST KEPT WALKING,
AND I MUST HAVE WALKED,

00:43:00.792 --> 00:43:03.791
I DON\'T KNOW,
FOUR OR FIVE, SIX HOURS,

00:43:03.792 --> 00:43:05.791
UNTIL RIGHT AROUND SUNSET,

00:43:05.792 --> 00:43:08.750
I GOT TO THIS POINT.

00:43:08.751 --> 00:43:12.249
AND IT WAS
THE MOST SPECTACULAR BEACH

00:43:12.250 --> 00:43:13.666
THAT I HAD EVER SEEN.

00:43:13.667 --> 00:43:16.291
I MEAN, LIKE,
JUST DRAMATICALLY BEAUTIFUL,

00:43:16.292 --> 00:43:19.583
AND I WAS STUNNED.

00:43:19.584 --> 00:43:23.291
AND THERE WAS A THAI FISHERMAN
SITTING ON THIS BEACH,

00:43:23.292 --> 00:43:24.791
AND HE WAS CLEANING
THE BARNACLES

00:43:24.792 --> 00:43:27.583
OFF OF HIS LITTLE DUGOUT,

00:43:27.584 --> 00:43:29.666
AND SUDDENLY HE LOOKED UP,
AND HE LOOKED AT ME,

00:43:29.667 --> 00:43:31.041
AND HE LOOKED REALLY STARTLED,

00:43:31.042 --> 00:43:37.374
AND HE SAID IN THIS PERFECT
TIME WARP 1960s ENGLISH,

00:43:37.375 --> 00:43:38.541
\"WHOA, MAN.

00:43:38.542 --> 00:43:42.166
LIKE, WHERE DID YOU COME FROM,
DUDE?\"

00:43:42.167 --> 00:43:45.917
HIS NAME WAS SUNBOON,
AND SUNBOON AND HIS WIFE, CHON,

00:43:45.918 --> 00:43:48.708
HAD WORKED FOR THE U.S. MILITARY
DURING THE VIETNAM WAR.

00:43:48.709 --> 00:43:52.625
SO THEY HADN\'T SPOKEN ENGLISH
SINCE THEN.

00:43:52.626 --> 00:43:54.166
AND THEY HAD TWO LITTLE CHILDREN

00:43:54.167 --> 00:43:56.875
WHO LIVED ON
THIS INCREDIBLE BEACH,

00:43:56.876 --> 00:43:59.249
THIS INCREDIBLE BEACH CALLED
HAAD RIN.

00:43:59.250 --> 00:44:00.875
AND THEY OPENED THEIR DOORS,

00:44:00.876 --> 00:44:03.124
AND I STAYED WITH THEM
FOR A MONTH.

00:44:03.125 --> 00:44:06.500
AND IT WAS PARADISE.

00:44:06.501 --> 00:44:08.500
NOT ONLY WAS I
THE ONLY TRAVELER THERE,

00:44:08.501 --> 00:44:10.124
BUT NO TRAVELERS
WERE GOING THERE.

00:44:10.125 --> 00:44:11.166
PERIOD.

00:44:11.167 --> 00:44:13.250
THERE WEREN\'T THERE YET.

00:44:18.417 --> 00:44:19.875
THERE HAD BEEN A GERMAN COUPLE

00:44:19.876 --> 00:44:22.791
WHO I HAD MET IN
NORTHERN THAILAND MONTHS BEFORE,

00:44:22.792 --> 00:44:26.541
AND WE HAD TALKED ABOUT
RENDEZVOUSING IN KO SAMUI.

00:44:26.542 --> 00:44:29.082
AND I TOLD THEM
ABOUT THIS BEACH,

00:44:29.083 --> 00:44:30.791
THIS INCREDIBLE BEACH,
YOU KNOW,

00:44:30.792 --> 00:44:32.791
UNSPOILED
THAT NOBODY KNEW ABOUT

00:44:32.792 --> 00:44:35.791
AND THAT, YOU KNOW,
I WOULD TAKE THEM THERE,

00:44:35.792 --> 00:44:38.666
BUT I ASKED,
\"LIKE, WHATEVER YOU DO,

00:44:38.667 --> 00:44:40.875
\"DON\'T TELL PEOPLE
ABOUT THIS PLACE

00:44:40.876 --> 00:44:42.500
\"BECAUSE WHAT WILL HAPPEN IS

00:44:42.501 --> 00:44:45.626
BACKPACKERS WILL END UP
GOING THERE.\"

00:44:52.292 --> 00:44:55.292
[motor chugging]

00:44:57.792 --> 00:45:00.791
[upbeat rock music]

00:45:00.792 --> 00:45:08.792
♪ ♪

00:45:19.792 --> 00:45:21.583
- I WAS A BACKPACKER.

00:45:21.584 --> 00:45:22.791
I DIDN\'T HAVE VERY MUCH MONEY,

00:45:22.792 --> 00:45:24.791
AND I WAS LOOKING
FOR SOME ADVENTURE.

00:45:24.792 --> 00:45:29.416
AND I WAS, YOU KNOW,
LOOKING FOR SOMETHING.

00:45:29.417 --> 00:45:30.833
I MET A YOUNG MAN WHO WAS LIKE,

00:45:30.834 --> 00:45:32.875
\"I JUST SPENT THREE MONTHS
IN HAAD RIN,

00:45:32.876 --> 00:45:34.791
\"AND THERE WAS THESE AMAZING
PEOPLE THERE,

00:45:34.792 --> 00:45:35.792
THIS LITTLE COMMUNITY.\"

00:45:35.793 --> 00:45:38.500
IT WAS A TRAVELER\'S SCENE.

00:45:38.501 --> 00:45:40.374
THAT\'S WHERE
THE BACKPACKERS WERE.

00:45:40.375 --> 00:45:42.166
I GOT A BUNGALOW
AT BOBO\'S BUNGALOWS.

00:45:42.167 --> 00:45:44.625
IT WAS ABOUT 15 BAHTS,
ABOUT 50 CENTS,

00:45:44.626 --> 00:45:46.791
AND VERY QUICKLY REALIZED THERE
WAS THIS LITTLE COMMUNITY

00:45:46.792 --> 00:45:48.791
OF A COUPLE HUNDRED PEOPLE
WITH NO LOCKS ON DOORS

00:45:48.792 --> 00:45:50.458
ON THE BUNGALOWS
AND LIVING VERY SIMPLY

00:45:50.459 --> 00:45:51.791
AND VERY CHEAPLY HERE

00:45:51.792 --> 00:45:54.959
WITH 100 OR 150 PEOPLE
FROM ALL AROUND THE WORLD.

00:45:55.000 --> 00:45:56.791
YOU MAYBE CAN\'T SPEAK
THE SAME LANGUAGE

00:45:56.792 --> 00:45:58.333
AND YET WE ALL KNEW EACH OTHER.

00:45:58.334 --> 00:45:59.791
YOU KNOW, WE WERE ONE,

00:45:59.792 --> 00:46:01.917
AND WOW, YOU KNOW,
I WAS IN PARADISE,

00:46:01.918 --> 00:46:03.791
AND I KNEW IT,
AND I KNEW WE ALL KNEW IT.

00:46:03.792 --> 00:46:05.082
YOU KNOW, WE WERE...
THIS WAS IT.

00:46:05.083 --> 00:46:06.333
THIS IS IT, YOU KNOW?

00:46:06.334 --> 00:46:09.082
THIS IS SOMETHING GOING ON HERE
VERY SPECIAL.

00:46:09.083 --> 00:46:12.083
[water lapping]

00:46:14.375 --> 00:46:16.416
- YOU KNOW, AT THAT TIME,
MORE TOURISTS WERE COMING.

00:46:16.417 --> 00:46:18.791
MYSELF WAS BUYING FROCKS
FROM BALI,

00:46:18.792 --> 00:46:21.082
AND SELLING DRESSES
AND JEWELRY.

00:46:21.083 --> 00:46:25.666
- YOU KNOW, THIS WORKING LARK
DOES NOT SUIT ME.

00:46:25.667 --> 00:46:28.666
UP EVERY AFTERNOON
AT 4:00,

00:46:28.667 --> 00:46:34.500
DOWN TO THE MARKET
FOR TWO HOURS

00:46:34.501 --> 00:46:35.791
TILL 6:00.

00:46:35.792 --> 00:46:38.791
- LET THEM DRINK BEER
AND LISTEN TO BORING MUSIC.

00:46:38.792 --> 00:46:41.917
- OH, GOD, YEAH.
YOU HAVE TO DRINK BEER.

00:46:41.918 --> 00:46:43.791
- FILMING.
- HUH?

00:46:43.792 --> 00:46:45.041
- SPEAK INTO THE CAMERA.

00:46:45.042 --> 00:46:46.791
- [laughs]

00:46:46.792 --> 00:46:48.374
CANNOT SPEAK.

00:46:48.375 --> 00:46:50.249
- WHY NOT?

00:46:50.250 --> 00:46:51.334
YOU WANT TO BUM?

00:46:53.083 --> 00:46:55.708
- THE FIRST PARTIES
WAS ON THE MAIN BEACH.

00:46:55.709 --> 00:46:58.082
AND IT WAS JUST,
I REMEMBER, 40, 60 PEOPLE

00:46:58.083 --> 00:47:00.333
JUST REALLY MEETING,
ENJOYING IT,

00:47:00.334 --> 00:47:02.625
AND, YOU KNOW,
DANCING TILL SUNRISE.

00:47:02.626 --> 00:47:05.750
- THE FULL MOON PARTIES I KNEW
WAS ONE GROUP OF PEOPLE

00:47:05.751 --> 00:47:09.208
WITH ONE SOUND SYSTEM
AND ONE PARTY

00:47:09.209 --> 00:47:12.541
USUALLY
DOWN AT PARADISE BUNGALOWS.

00:47:12.542 --> 00:47:13.958
THE THAIS WERE
A LITTLE BIT RESISTANT,

00:47:13.959 --> 00:47:16.249
BUT THEY CAUGHT ON VERY QUICK
THAT THESE PARTIES

00:47:16.250 --> 00:47:18.166
WERE VERY POPULAR,
AND PEOPLE WERE STARTING

00:47:18.167 --> 00:47:20.666
TO COME MORE FROM SAMUI,
AND OTHER, YOU KNOW,

00:47:20.667 --> 00:47:25.249
WORD-OF-MOUTH, THE TRAVELER
SCENE, THE GOA SCENE.

00:47:25.250 --> 00:47:28.917
- IT WAS A COMPLETELY
UNREGULATED PHENOMENON.

00:47:28.918 --> 00:47:33.791
OVER TIME, CERTAIN HUBS
STARTED TO EMERGE.

00:47:33.792 --> 00:47:37.500
LIKE IF YOU WAS IN INDIA, GOA,
AND KOH PHANGAN

00:47:37.501 --> 00:47:42.791
FOR THE FULL MOON, NO MOON,
QUARTER MOON, WHATEVER FESTIVAL.

00:47:42.792 --> 00:47:44.333
THERE WERE THREE
OR FOUR A MONTH.

00:47:44.334 --> 00:47:48.666
[percussive music]

00:47:48.667 --> 00:47:50.791
- THEY PUT FIRE ON THE BEACH

00:47:50.792 --> 00:47:53.833
AND HAVE EVERYBODY
AROUND THE FIRE

00:47:53.834 --> 00:47:58.500
AND HAVE DANCING LITTLE BIT,
HUH?

00:47:58.501 --> 00:48:00.750
- MR. KAO IN HAAD RIN WAS VERY
COOPERATIVE IN THE BEGINNING

00:48:00.751 --> 00:48:02.166
BECAUSE THEY WERE GLAD
WE WERE THERE.

00:48:02.167 --> 00:48:05.500
NOBODY ELSE WANTED TO BE THERE,
AND THEY WERE MAKING MONEY.

00:48:05.501 --> 00:48:08.501
[drumming]

00:48:15.125 --> 00:48:17.082
- IN THE EARLY 1990s,

00:48:17.083 --> 00:48:19.708
I OPENED A MAGAZINE,
AND THE BACK PAGE

00:48:19.709 --> 00:48:22.875
WAS THIS PHOTOGRAPH
OF HAAD RIN BEACH,

00:48:22.876 --> 00:48:24.541
THE BEACH THAT I HAD BEEN AT,

00:48:24.542 --> 00:48:29.583
WITH THOUSANDS AND THOUSANDS
OF PEOPLE,

00:48:29.584 --> 00:48:31.041
JUST, LIKE, UNBELIEVABLE.

00:48:31.042 --> 00:48:32.833
IT WAS STAGGERING.

00:48:32.834 --> 00:48:35.834
[fireworks exploding]

00:48:39.792 --> 00:48:41.709
- IT\'S GETTING FUCKING WILD.

00:48:44.292 --> 00:48:46.291
- THE MILLENNIUM.

00:48:46.292 --> 00:48:47.458
[explosions]

00:48:47.459 --> 00:48:49.791
I THINK THAT WAS THE BIGGEST
KICKOFF OF ALL.

00:48:49.792 --> 00:48:52.917
I MEAN, THE PLACE WAS ABSOLUTELY
RAM-PACKED.

00:48:52.918 --> 00:48:56.959
THERE MUST HAVE BEEN 10,000
12,000 PEOPLE THERE THAT NIGHT.

00:48:57.000 --> 00:48:58.500
- YEAH!

00:48:58.501 --> 00:49:01.584
[crowd whooping and screaming]

00:49:12.918 --> 00:49:17.291
- I THINK KOH PHANGAN WAS
A BEAUTIFUL, BEAUTIFUL ISLAND.

00:49:17.292 --> 00:49:20.416
A BIT OF A MID-20s SUMMER CAMP,
SO TO SPEAK,

00:49:20.417 --> 00:49:21.875
WHERE PEOPLE FROM AROUND
THE WORLD CAME

00:49:21.876 --> 00:49:23.458
AND JUST PARTIED.

00:49:23.459 --> 00:49:25.208
I\'D HEARD ABOUT
THE FULL MOON PARTIES.

00:49:25.209 --> 00:49:27.374
I\'D HEARD JUST PEOPLE
GETTING TOGETHER

00:49:27.375 --> 00:49:31.791
AND HAVING MASSIVE COMMUNAL...

00:49:31.792 --> 00:49:32.792
[laughs]
DEBAUCHERY.

00:49:32.793 --> 00:49:40.793
[upbeat dance music]

00:49:43.584 --> 00:49:46.416
- IF CAN CHANGE
YOU LIKE TO CHANGE,

00:49:46.417 --> 00:49:49.208
LIKE, A LESS PARTY
AND, LIKE, A MORE...

00:49:49.209 --> 00:49:51.833
MORE... HAVE ANOTHER ACTIVITY,

00:49:51.834 --> 00:49:54.458
NOT ONLY PARTIES.

00:49:54.459 --> 00:49:57.750
TOURISTS HAVE LED TO, LIKE,
KEEP CLEAN,

00:49:57.751 --> 00:50:00.875
KEEP SOMETHING
ABOUT NATURE HERE,

00:50:00.876 --> 00:50:03.875
BECAUSE WHEN THEY\'RE DRUNK,
THEY FORGET EVERYTHING.

00:50:03.876 --> 00:50:07.082
THEY DROP EVERYTHING
ON THE ROAD,

00:50:07.083 --> 00:50:10.751
UNDER, LIKE... A CAB OUT,
THAT ONE, YEAH.

00:50:26.167 --> 00:50:28.541
- HAPPY NEW YEAR!
2010, BABY!

00:50:28.542 --> 00:50:32.041
- IT MOVED FROM DRIFTER
TO BACKPACKER.

00:50:32.042 --> 00:50:33.917
AND PRESENTLY IT MOVES

00:50:33.918 --> 00:50:39.291
FROM BACKPACKING
TO BACKPACKAGING.

00:50:39.292 --> 00:50:42.082
THERE\'S A COMPLETELY
SOCIAL SYSTEM SERVING THEM,

00:50:42.083 --> 00:50:44.959
INCLUDING ALL THE TOURISTS
AND ALL THESE EXPERIENCES

00:50:45.000 --> 00:50:46.374
THEY\'RE LOOKING FOR.

00:50:46.375 --> 00:50:49.708
SO YOU KNOW THAT THE WHOLE
BACKPACKING PHENOMENON

00:50:49.709 --> 00:50:53.791
BECOMES A SUB-SPECIALTY

00:50:53.792 --> 00:50:57.583
OF INSTITUTIONALIZED TOURISM.

00:50:57.584 --> 00:50:59.333
- I DON\'T THINK THE THAIS
REALIZED HOW POPULAR

00:50:59.334 --> 00:51:00.791
IT WOULD BECOME.

00:51:00.792 --> 00:51:03.791
HAAD RIN\'S CHANGED IN THE FACT
THAT, LIKE ANYWHERE,

00:51:03.792 --> 00:51:05.959
IF YOU DON\'T HAVE TOWN PLANNING
TO BEGIN WITH,

00:51:06.000 --> 00:51:07.333
IT CAN OVERTAKE.

00:51:07.334 --> 00:51:10.333
[percussive dance music]

00:51:10.334 --> 00:51:18.334
♪ ♪

00:51:27.792 --> 00:51:31.082
[cheers and applause]

00:51:31.083 --> 00:51:34.083
[fireworks exploding]

00:51:36.626 --> 00:51:40.124
[percussive dance music]

00:51:40.125 --> 00:51:43.708
- ALL TOURISTS LIKE BUCKET,
YOU KNOW, FOR THE FULL MOON.

00:51:43.709 --> 00:51:45.833
THEY LIKE TO GO DRINK,
TAKE A BUCKET.

00:51:45.834 --> 00:51:47.541
AND CHEAPER HERE.

00:51:47.542 --> 00:51:48.791
- WE ALL COME TO PARTY.

00:51:48.792 --> 00:51:51.249
- FOR THE FULL MOON PARTY,
WE\'RE...

00:51:51.250 --> 00:51:53.750
- AND EXPERIENCE THE CULTURE...

00:51:53.751 --> 00:51:55.041
- AND KOH PHANGAN.

00:51:55.042 --> 00:51:57.124
- OF BUCKETS.
- [laughs] YES.

00:51:57.125 --> 00:51:59.791
THAT\'S THE ONLY THING.
- THE BUCKET CULTURE.

00:51:59.792 --> 00:52:01.042
I THINK IT\'S VERY IMPORTANT.

00:52:13.792 --> 00:52:15.791
- AH, WHISKEY, YEAH?
- 1.30.

00:52:15.792 --> 00:52:17.125
- 1.50.

00:52:19.167 --> 00:52:23.625
- WHEN I FIRST CAME
TO KHO PHANGAN,

00:52:23.626 --> 00:52:24.833
I WAS HAVING FUN.

00:52:24.834 --> 00:52:27.124
I WAS PART OF THIS.

00:52:27.125 --> 00:52:29.541
I WAS EXCITED.
I WAS DRUNK.

00:52:29.542 --> 00:52:32.541
I... YOU KNOW,
I HAD A GREAT TIME.

00:52:32.542 --> 00:52:36.291
AND AFTER THREE, FOUR DAYS,
IT JUST...

00:52:36.292 --> 00:52:37.750
YOU START SEEING MORE,

00:52:37.751 --> 00:52:39.875
AND YOU START REALLY SEEING
WHAT\'S GOING ON

00:52:39.876 --> 00:52:43.833
AND REALLY APPRECIATING
THE SORT OF...

00:52:43.834 --> 00:52:46.625
THE... THE COMPLETE LACK
OF RESPECT

00:52:46.626 --> 00:52:49.875
FOR ANY OF THIS,
FOR ANY OF THIS ISLAND

00:52:49.876 --> 00:52:51.666
AND FOR THE PEOPLE.

00:52:51.667 --> 00:52:54.708
AND IT JUST, YEAH,
IT STARTED TO...

00:52:54.709 --> 00:52:57.249
WELL, IT CHANGED MY PERSPECTIVE

00:52:57.250 --> 00:52:59.459
ON THE WHOLE PARTYING SCENE.

00:53:54.792 --> 00:53:56.791
- IN THE CASE OF HAAD RIN,
YOU KNOW,

00:53:56.792 --> 00:53:58.166
THERE WAS NO DEVELOPMENT PLAN.

00:53:58.167 --> 00:53:59.958
TOURISM SHOULD HAVE NEVER
BEEN ALLOWED

00:53:59.959 --> 00:54:01.333
TO TAKE PLACE
THE WAY IT DID.

00:54:01.334 --> 00:54:03.374
IT WAS ANARCHY.
IT WAS A FREE-FOR-ALL.

00:54:03.375 --> 00:54:04.833
THERE NOTHING TO GUIDE IT.

00:54:04.834 --> 00:54:06.833
WHO WAS ASKING IMPORTANT
QUESTIONS LIKE,

00:54:06.834 --> 00:54:08.583
\"WELL, WHERE\'S ALL THE PLASTIC
GONNA GO?\"

00:54:08.584 --> 00:54:09.875
\"WHERE\'S THE WASTE GONNA GO?\"

00:54:09.876 --> 00:54:12.458
\"WHERE ARE PEOPLE GONNA GO
TO THE BATHROOM?\"

00:54:12.459 --> 00:54:14.041
\"IT\'S ALL JUST GONNA END UP
ON THE BEACH.\"

00:54:14.042 --> 00:54:15.791
\"IT\'S ALL GONNA END UP
ON THE WATER.\"

00:54:15.792 --> 00:54:21.791
30 YEARS AGO, PEOPLE WEREN\'T
ASKING THESE QUESTIONS.

00:54:21.792 --> 00:54:23.416
- BUT WE DIDN\'T HAVE
THE FACILITIES.

00:54:23.417 --> 00:54:26.875
IT\'S JUST OVERTAKEN,
THE... IT\'S NOT... YOU KNOW.

00:54:26.876 --> 00:54:30.416
I WOULD PUT IT HALF TOWARDS
THE THAIS NOT KNOWING

00:54:30.417 --> 00:54:31.625
WHAT WAS GONNA HAPPEN

00:54:31.626 --> 00:54:34.833
AND HALF OF IT
THE FOREIGNERS WHO DO COME HERE.

00:54:34.834 --> 00:54:36.708
- I THINK THERE\'S LOADS
OF LESSONS,

00:54:36.709 --> 00:54:39.333
BUT I THINK IT\'S VERY HARD,
LIKE ANYTHING IN THE WORLD,

00:54:39.334 --> 00:54:42.875
TO LOOK AHEAD AND SAY

00:54:42.876 --> 00:54:44.458
WHAT YOU COULD DO TO CHANGE IT.

00:54:44.459 --> 00:54:45.791
IT\'S EASY TO SAY AFTER.

00:54:45.792 --> 00:54:47.041
IT\'S SO HARD TO SAY BEFORE.

00:54:47.042 --> 00:54:49.792
- [speaking English]

00:54:55.834 --> 00:54:56.834
- [speaking English]

00:55:08.000 --> 00:55:11.791
- THE 1986 EQUIVALENT
OF KOH PHANGAN EXISTS

00:55:11.792 --> 00:55:14.541
SOMEWHERE IN THE PHILIPPINES
OR INDONESIA RIGHT NOW.

00:55:14.542 --> 00:55:17.333
AND THAT SCENES TRANSFORMS
AND BURNED ITSELF OUT HERE

00:55:17.334 --> 00:55:18.792
AND COMES BACK UP
IN ANOTHER PLACE.

00:55:33.083 --> 00:55:35.082
- SO I\'M IN THAILAND,
AND I\'M IN THE MORNING MARKET,

00:55:35.083 --> 00:55:36.541
GOING TO BUY SOME FRUIT,

00:55:36.542 --> 00:55:38.791
AND I CAN TELL THAT PEOPLE
ARE TALKING ABOUT ME.

00:55:38.792 --> 00:55:42.166
\'CAUSE I\'M HEARING THAT WORD,
FARANG.

00:55:42.167 --> 00:55:43.666
FARANGMEANS FOREIGNER.

00:55:43.667 --> 00:55:46.791
AND I\'M IN THIS TOWN
WHERE I\'M TEACHING,

00:55:46.792 --> 00:55:49.333
AND I\'M THE ONLY FOREIGNER
AROUND.

00:55:49.334 --> 00:55:51.583
AND SO I HEAR THIS WORD A LOT.

00:55:51.584 --> 00:55:52.791
YOU KNOW, I JUST...

00:55:52.792 --> 00:55:54.541
EVERYWHERE I GO,
I GET A LOT OF ATTENTION.

00:55:54.542 --> 00:55:55.959
IT\'S ALWAYS LIKE,
\"FARANG! FARANG!\"

00:55:56.000 --> 00:55:58.833
AND THIS DAY,
I... I\'VE BEEN THERE

00:55:58.834 --> 00:56:00.374
FOR LONG ENOUGH
THAT I HAVE STARTED

00:56:00.375 --> 00:56:01.791
TO LEARN A LITTLE BIT OF THAI.

00:56:01.792 --> 00:56:04.583
AND I KNOW WHAT PEOPLE
ARE SAYING ABOUT ME.

00:56:04.584 --> 00:56:06.500
SO I GO TO BUY A GUAVA,

00:56:06.501 --> 00:56:07.791
AND I HEAR,

00:56:07.792 --> 00:56:10.750
\"OH,FARANGLIKE GUAVA.
FARANGLIKE GUAVA!\"

00:56:10.751 --> 00:56:12.791
AND EVERYONE\'S, LIKE,
EXCITED AND WHISPERING,

00:56:12.792 --> 00:56:15.541
AND... AND I WANTED TO TURN
AND BE LIKE,

00:56:15.542 --> 00:56:18.500
\"NO, I LIKE GUAVA.\"

00:56:18.501 --> 00:56:19.791
BECAUSE IT HAD JUST HIT ME

00:56:19.792 --> 00:56:24.374
THAT I WAS REALLY REPRESENTING
THE WESTERN WORLD THERE,

00:56:24.375 --> 00:56:26.458
AND I WAS, LIKE, 22,
JUST OUT OF COLLEGE,

00:56:26.459 --> 00:56:28.041
AND HERE I WAS,
KIND OF BEING

00:56:28.042 --> 00:56:30.374
AN AMBASSADOR IN THIS TOWN.

00:56:30.375 --> 00:56:32.458
AND YOU KNOW, IF I LIKED GUAVA,

00:56:32.459 --> 00:56:34.791
THEN MAYBE ALL FARANG
LIKED GUAVA.

00:56:34.792 --> 00:56:37.041
SO AS I LEFT THE MARKET,

00:56:37.042 --> 00:56:38.500
I STARTED TO FEEL, LIKE,

00:56:38.501 --> 00:56:41.249
THIS REAL SENSE
OF RESPONSIBILITY.

00:56:41.250 --> 00:56:44.333
YOU KNOW, LIKE I HAD TO GIVE
A GOOD NAME TO THE FARANG.

00:56:44.334 --> 00:56:46.166
SO I DETERMINED, LIKE,
I WASN\'T...

00:56:46.167 --> 00:56:47.500
I WAS SO CAREFUL.

00:56:47.501 --> 00:56:49.291
I DIDN\'T DRINK
OR SMOKE IN PUBLIC.

00:56:49.292 --> 00:56:50.791
I WORE MODEST CLOTHES.

00:56:50.792 --> 00:56:52.541
I, LIKE, REALLY LEARNED THAI.

00:56:52.542 --> 00:56:55.082
BUT THEN I GOT MY FIRST
VACATION.

00:56:55.083 --> 00:56:57.791
AND I WENT DOWN TO THE SOUTH
WITH THE BACKPACKERS,

00:56:57.792 --> 00:57:02.166
AND IT WAS SO GREAT
TO, LIKE, GET TO RELAX

00:57:02.167 --> 00:57:06.291
AND DRINK AND SMOKE
AND, YOU KNOW, JUST HAVE FUN.

00:57:06.292 --> 00:57:08.875
BUT EVEN SO,
I JUST COULDN\'T HELP MYSELF

00:57:08.876 --> 00:57:14.041
ASKING, LIKE, \"WHAT IMPRESSION
ARE WE MAKING HERE?\"

00:57:14.042 --> 00:57:16.959
BECAUSE, YOU KNOW,
IT\'S HARMLESS WHEN IT\'S A GUAVA,

00:57:17.000 --> 00:57:22.791
BUT WHAT ABOUT WHEN FARANGLIKE
THE SEX TRADE OR BINGE DRINKING?

00:57:22.792 --> 00:57:24.666
YOU KNOW, I WANTED SO BADLY

00:57:24.667 --> 00:57:26.917
TO BE ABLE TO SHAKE
THAT SENSE OF RESPONSIBILITY,

00:57:26.918 --> 00:57:29.166
BUT IT JUST...
THAT QUESTION NEVER WENT AWAY.

00:57:29.167 --> 00:57:32.791
WHAT... WHAT IMPRESSION
ARE WE LEAVING BEHIND?

00:57:32.792 --> 00:57:35.167
WHAT NAME ARE WE MAKING
FOR THE FARANG?

00:57:40.459 --> 00:57:42.334
- [shouting]

00:58:37.375 --> 00:58:41.959
SLOWLY, SLOWLY TRY TO,
YOU KNOW, DEVELOP.

00:58:42.000 --> 00:58:43.791
IT\'S NOT REALLY VERY FAST.

00:58:43.792 --> 00:58:44.792
AND LOST EVERYTHING.

00:59:03.417 --> 00:59:04.833
- WE LOOKED AT MODELS
AROUND THE WORLD.

00:59:04.834 --> 00:59:07.791
AND ALSO WE LOOKED AT NEXT-DOOR
NEPAL AND THAILAND.

00:59:07.792 --> 00:59:09.374
THERE IS MASS TOURISM.

00:59:09.375 --> 00:59:11.791
WE SAID,
\"NO, WE DON\'T WANT THAT.\"

00:59:11.792 --> 00:59:12.833
WHAT\'S GONNA HAPPEN?

00:59:12.834 --> 00:59:15.500
THERE\'S GONNA BE THE DEVELOPMENT
OF BARS, CLUBS,

00:59:15.501 --> 00:59:17.750
PROSTITUTION CENTERS,
MASSAGE PARLORS,

00:59:17.751 --> 00:59:19.708
AND EVERYTHING IS GONNA BE
GEARED TO ITS TOURISM,

00:59:19.709 --> 00:59:23.082
WHERE PEOPLE ARE GOING TO LOSE
THEIR IDENTITY, THEIR CULTURE.

00:59:23.083 --> 00:59:24.959
PEOPLE THAT HAVE BEEN
BACKPACKERS IN THE PAST,

00:59:25.000 --> 00:59:28.333
WHEN THEY WERE 25...
BELOW 25 YEARS OF AGE,

00:59:28.334 --> 00:59:30.625
NOW THEY\'VE MATURED,
THEY\'VE EVOLVED,

00:59:30.626 --> 00:59:31.875
AND THEY\'VE BEEN THERE,
DONE THAT,

00:59:31.876 --> 00:59:33.082
SEEN THE WORLD,
AND THEY\'RE LOOKING

00:59:33.083 --> 00:59:34.291
FOR A DIFFERENT EXPERIENCE.

00:59:34.292 --> 00:59:36.333
SO THEY CHOOSE TO COME
TO BHUTAN.

00:59:36.334 --> 00:59:39.334
[bells clinking]

01:00:10.292 --> 01:00:11.791
- IN THE MID \'70s,

01:00:11.792 --> 01:00:13.791
WHEN OUR FOURTH KING
WAS CORONATED

01:00:13.792 --> 01:00:15.750
AS THE YOUNGEST HEAD OF STATE,

01:00:15.751 --> 01:00:17.500
PEOPLE SAID,
\"HOW SHOULD YOU DEVELOP?

01:00:17.501 --> 01:00:19.124
HOW CAN YOU INCREASE
YOUR G.D.P?\"

01:00:19.125 --> 01:00:20.625
AND HE WAS A VISIONARY,

01:00:20.626 --> 01:00:21.791
HE SAID, \"NO.

01:00:21.792 --> 01:00:24.041
I WANT TO INCREASE
MY PEOPLE\'S G.N.H.\"

01:00:24.042 --> 01:00:25.791
AND PEOPLE SAID,
\"WHAT IS G.N.H.?\"

01:00:25.792 --> 01:00:28.374
GROSS NATIONAL HAPPINESS
AIMS AT STRIKING A BALANCE

01:00:28.375 --> 01:00:30.082
BETWEEN THE MATERIAL,
THE EMOTIONAL,

01:00:30.083 --> 01:00:32.791
AND SPIRITUAL WELL-BEING
OF ITS PEOPLE.

01:00:32.792 --> 01:00:35.416
SO WE FOLLOW THE G.N.H. WAY,
WHICH IS A MIDDLE PATH.

01:00:35.417 --> 01:00:37.291
AND IT\'S BASED ON
FOUR MAIN PILLARS.

01:00:37.292 --> 01:00:39.458
ONE IS SUSTAINABLE DEVELOPMENT.

01:00:39.459 --> 01:00:41.958
THE SECOND POINT IS
PRESERVATION AND PROMOTION

01:00:41.959 --> 01:00:43.791
OF THE ENVIRONMENT.

01:00:43.792 --> 01:00:47.666
THE THIRD POINT IS THE
PRESERVATION OF YOUR CULTURE.

01:00:47.667 --> 01:00:49.625
WITHOUT YOUR CULTURE,
YOU LOSE YOUR IDENTITY.

01:00:49.626 --> 01:00:51.708
AND LAST, BUT NOT LEAST,
IS THE ESTABLISHMENT

01:00:51.709 --> 01:00:53.124
OF GOOD GOVERNMENTS.

01:00:53.125 --> 01:00:54.833
- DID YOU HELP HIM
ALL THE WAY UP THE MOUNTAIN?

01:00:54.834 --> 01:00:56.833
- I DID.
- [laughs]

01:00:56.834 --> 01:00:58.791
- I DID.

01:00:58.792 --> 01:01:02.166
- I DON\'T THINK HE WENT UP.
- NO.

01:01:02.167 --> 01:01:04.249
- HOW... WHAT\'S THE ELEVATION
CHANGE

01:01:04.250 --> 01:01:07.209
FROM THE PARKING LOT
TO THE RESTAURANT?

01:01:10.584 --> 01:01:11.959
- TO THE RESTAURANT?
- YEAH.

01:01:28.042 --> 01:01:31.042
[indistinct conversations]

01:02:06.626 --> 01:02:09.625
[traditional Bhutanese music]

01:02:09.626 --> 01:02:17.626
♪ ♪

01:02:37.959 --> 01:02:40.208
- TODAY\'S TRAVELERS
ARE JUST CRISSCROSSING THE WORLD

01:02:40.209 --> 01:02:41.791
AT GREATER VOLUME
AND INTENSITY

01:02:41.792 --> 01:02:42.959
THAN EVER BEFORE

01:02:43.000 --> 01:02:46.124
SO THAT THE MAP OF OUR PLANET
NOW LOOKS LIKE

01:02:46.125 --> 01:02:47.791
A JACKSON POLLOCK CANVAS.

01:02:47.792 --> 01:02:49.791
IT PREVIOUSLY LOOKED
LIKE A GREAT OPEN SPACE,

01:02:49.792 --> 01:02:51.416
AND I THINK THAT\'S ALL
TO THE GOOD

01:02:51.417 --> 01:02:52.791
BECAUSE I THINK
WITH EACH GENERATION

01:02:52.792 --> 01:02:54.833
OF TRAVELERS... TRAVELERS GETTING
MORE CONSCIOUS,

01:02:54.834 --> 01:02:57.416
MORE RESPONSIBLE,
MORE ATTENTIVE

01:02:57.417 --> 01:03:00.708
TO THE NEEDS OF THE PEOPLE
THAT THEY VISIT,

01:03:00.709 --> 01:03:02.583
AND I THINK MORE AND MORE
TRAVELERS NOWADAYS

01:03:02.584 --> 01:03:04.917
ARE REALIZING THAT THE FIRST
QUESTION THEY HAVE

01:03:04.918 --> 01:03:07.374
TO ASK THEMSELVES IS,
WOULD THESE PEOPLE WANT US

01:03:07.375 --> 01:03:08.501
TO VISIT THEM?

01:03:18.792 --> 01:03:21.583
- SO I WAS TRAVELING
IN SALVADOR, BRAZIL,

01:03:21.584 --> 01:03:22.791
WITH MY FRIEND, JOHN,

01:03:22.792 --> 01:03:24.666
AND ONE NIGHT,
WE GOT MUGGED.

01:03:24.667 --> 01:03:25.875
AND WE DIDN\'T JUST GET MUGGED.

01:03:25.876 --> 01:03:28.583
WE GOT MUGGED BY THESE LITTLE
MUNCHKIN BRAZILIAN KIDS

01:03:28.584 --> 01:03:32.666
THAT STOLE MY $25
AND MUCH OF MY MASCULINITY.

01:03:32.667 --> 01:03:34.458
AND SO JOHN AND I DECIDED

01:03:34.459 --> 01:03:35.875
WE NEEDED TO GET OUT
OF SALVADOR.

01:03:35.876 --> 01:03:37.791
AND SO WE TOOK A BUS
INTO THE SUBURBS,

01:03:37.792 --> 01:03:39.333
WENT TO THE BEACH,

01:03:39.334 --> 01:03:43.249
AND MET THESE TWO SISTERS
WHO WERE SUPER NICE,

01:03:43.250 --> 01:03:44.666
STARTED CHATTING US UP,

01:03:44.667 --> 01:03:46.666
AND ACTUALLY ASKED US OUT,

01:03:46.667 --> 01:03:48.583
WHICH WAS WEIRD \'CAUSE
THEY WERE A LITTLE OLDER.

01:03:48.584 --> 01:03:49.750
THEY WERE THERE WITH THEIR KIDS.

01:03:49.751 --> 01:03:50.958
THEY CLAIMED THEY WERE DIVORCED.

01:03:50.959 --> 01:03:52.791
AND WE\'D, LIKE,
HEARD THESE STORIES

01:03:52.792 --> 01:03:55.791
THAT THESE BRAZILIAN GIRLS
ASKED THE FOREIGNERS OUT,

01:03:55.792 --> 01:03:57.791
THEN, LIKE, SLIP SOMETHING
INTO THEIR DRINK

01:03:57.792 --> 01:04:00.082
OR SHAKE THEM DOWN FOR MONEY
OR WHATEVER.

01:04:00.083 --> 01:04:02.291
SO WE WEREN\'T SURE.

01:04:02.292 --> 01:04:04.583
BUT WE SAID,
\"WHY NOT?\"

01:04:04.584 --> 01:04:07.666
SO THE NEXT NIGHT,
WE HEAD INTO TOWN

01:04:07.667 --> 01:04:09.333
AND MEET THE SISTERS
AT THIS BAR,

01:04:09.334 --> 01:04:10.833
BUT IT\'S NOT LIKE A NORMAL BAR

01:04:10.834 --> 01:04:12.666
WITH, LIKE, BEER OR VODKA
OR WHATEVER.

01:04:12.667 --> 01:04:15.082
THEY HAVE THESE, LIKE,
GIANT WOODEN CASKS

01:04:15.083 --> 01:04:18.333
THAT HAVE SOME WEIRD
CLEAR LIQUID IN IT.

01:04:18.334 --> 01:04:20.791
AND THEY POUR ONE GLASS
FOR THE FOUR OF US.

01:04:20.792 --> 01:04:23.791
AND THE SISTERS START, LIKE,
SIPPING FROM IT.

01:04:23.792 --> 01:04:25.124
OR MAYBE THEY\'RE NOT.

01:04:25.125 --> 01:04:26.750
MAYBE THEY\'RE JUST PUTTING IT
TO THEIR LIPS,

01:04:26.751 --> 01:04:28.041
\'CAUSE, LIKE, THE AMOUNT
IN THE GLASS

01:04:28.042 --> 01:04:29.791
DOESN\'T SEEM TO BE GOING DOWN.

01:04:29.792 --> 01:04:33.917
SO JOHN AND I AREN\'T SURE
WHETHER TO DRINK IT.

01:04:33.918 --> 01:04:35.249
BUT EVENTUALLY,
WE KIND OF DO.

01:04:35.250 --> 01:04:36.791
WE DRINK SOME OF IT.

01:04:36.792 --> 01:04:38.249
AND WE END UP LEAVING THE BAR,
YOU KNOW,

01:04:38.250 --> 01:04:40.291
STILL ON OUR FEET.

01:04:40.292 --> 01:04:42.041
WE WALK AROUND.
WE HAVE DINNER.

01:04:42.042 --> 01:04:44.875
AND THE EVENING KIND OF
REACHES ITS CONCLUSION.

01:04:44.876 --> 01:04:46.791
AND WE\'RE AT THE BUS STOP
WAITING TO GO HOME,

01:04:46.792 --> 01:04:47.959
WHEN THE SISTERS SAY,
\"NO, NO, NO, NO, NO.

01:04:48.000 --> 01:04:49.541
\"DON\'T GET ON THE BUS.
IT\'S TOO LATE.

01:04:49.542 --> 01:04:50.791
\"IT\'S NOT SAFE TO GO HOME.

01:04:50.792 --> 01:04:53.458
YOU SHOULD JUST COME BACK
WITH US.\"

01:04:53.459 --> 01:04:55.291
AND WE\'RE LIKE, \"HMM.

01:04:55.292 --> 01:04:59.917
THIS COULD BE REALLY GOOD, OR IT
COULD BE REALLY, REALLY BAD.\"

01:04:59.918 --> 01:05:01.666
BUT AGAINST OUR BETTER JUDGMENT,

01:05:01.667 --> 01:05:03.791
WE GO HOME WITH THE SISTERS.

01:05:03.792 --> 01:05:06.666
AND ONE OF THEM GRABS ME
BY THE HAND

01:05:06.667 --> 01:05:10.666
AND LEADS ME INTO HER BEDROOM.

01:05:10.667 --> 01:05:13.208
AND THERE\'S THIS FEELING YOU GET

01:05:13.209 --> 01:05:14.249
WHEN YOU GET MUGGED.

01:05:14.250 --> 01:05:15.333
IT\'S A TERRIBLE FEELING.

01:05:15.334 --> 01:05:17.082
I... IF YOU\'VE EVER...
NOT JUST MUGGED,

01:05:17.083 --> 01:05:18.625
BUT, LIKE, ANY VIOLENT CRIME

01:05:18.626 --> 01:05:20.416
THAT JUST MAKES YOU
SO SUSPICIOUS

01:05:20.417 --> 01:05:22.750
AND, LIKE, SO WORRIED...

01:05:22.751 --> 01:05:24.791
ALL THE TIME
FOR DAYS OR WEEKS

01:05:24.792 --> 01:05:26.791
BEFORE IT GOES AWAY,

01:05:26.792 --> 01:05:28.959
BUT IN THIS CASE,
IT WAS TOTALLY MISPLACED,

01:05:29.000 --> 01:05:30.791
BECAUSE THE NEXT THING
THAT HAPPENED

01:05:30.792 --> 01:05:33.666
WAS THE STRANGEST THING
IN THE WHOLE NIGHT.

01:05:33.667 --> 01:05:36.791
JOHN WALKS IN
BEHIND US,

01:05:36.792 --> 01:05:41.708
AND THE SISTERS PROCEED TO TUCK
JOHN AND I INTO BED TOGETHER

01:05:41.709 --> 01:05:42.875
AND THEN GO SLEEP

01:05:42.876 --> 01:05:44.791
IN ONE OF THEIR SON\'S
LITTLE BEDS.

01:05:44.792 --> 01:05:47.333
AND FROM THE BAR

01:05:47.334 --> 01:05:48.583
TO THE BEDROOM,

01:05:48.584 --> 01:05:50.792
THEIR INTENTIONS
WERE ENTIRELY PURE.

01:05:55.584 --> 01:05:58.584
[birds chirping]

01:06:23.375 --> 01:06:26.375
- [speaking Spanish]

01:07:43.083 --> 01:07:46.083
- [speaking Spanish]

01:08:09.417 --> 01:08:10.791
- [laughs]

01:08:10.792 --> 01:08:13.792
- [speaking Spanish]

01:08:53.584 --> 01:08:55.458
- WE DID KNOW THIS PLACE WAS,
YEAH,

01:08:55.459 --> 01:08:57.208
MAKING A POSITIVE CONTRIBUTION.

01:08:57.209 --> 01:08:58.958
- HAD YOU HEARD ABOUT...
- LONELYPLANET, YEAH.

01:08:58.959 --> 01:09:00.666
- LONELY PLANET,
AND THEN WE KNEW

01:09:00.667 --> 01:09:02.750
THAT IT\'D BEEN WRITTEN ABOUT
IN NATIONAL GEOGRAPHICAS WELL.

01:09:02.751 --> 01:09:04.458
SO WE SORT OF READ...
- PEOPLE WERE TALKING ABOUT IT.

01:09:04.459 --> 01:09:05.708
- YEAH.

01:09:05.709 --> 01:09:07.416
- THE GUIDES REALLY KNOW
THEIR STUFF AS WELL.

01:09:07.417 --> 01:09:10.291
THEY\'RE REALLY GOOD.
THEY\'RE AMAZING.

01:09:10.292 --> 01:09:12.333
- YEAH.
- JUST INCREDIBLE.

01:09:12.334 --> 01:09:14.416
YOU\'RE WALKING ALONG
AND THEY\'LL SPOT SOMETHING...

01:09:14.417 --> 01:09:15.541
- SPOT A BIRD, LIKE,
MILES OFF.

01:09:15.542 --> 01:09:16.791
[both laughing]

01:09:16.792 --> 01:09:18.374
THAT YOU HAVEN\'T SEEN
AND GET YOUR TELESCOPE,

01:09:18.375 --> 01:09:19.500
AND THEY\'RE UP THERE.

01:09:19.501 --> 01:09:21.625
LIKE, WE SAW SOME HOWLER MONKEYS
TODAY.

01:09:21.626 --> 01:09:22.875
DON\'T KNOW HOW HE SAW THEM.

01:09:22.876 --> 01:09:25.082
LIKE, THEY WERE THERE... THERE WAS
LIKE SEVEN OR EIGHT OF THEM

01:09:25.083 --> 01:09:26.208
IN THE TREES.

01:09:26.209 --> 01:09:28.791
- AND THE GREEN PARROT
IN THE TREES.

01:09:28.792 --> 01:09:30.249
- BEHIND LEAVES.

01:09:30.250 --> 01:09:32.210
HE WAS LIKE, \"LOOK, THERE\'S
A GREEN PARROT, YEAH.\"

01:10:22.584 --> 01:10:25.584
[water splashes]

01:10:29.042 --> 01:10:31.167
- GOD, IT\'S JUST BEAUTIFUL,
ISN\'T IT?

01:10:35.083 --> 01:10:37.791
- IN THIS FOREST,
THERE ARE MANY THINGS.

01:10:37.792 --> 01:10:40.791
EVERY DAY YOU CAN FIND
THE DIFFERENT THINGS.

01:10:40.792 --> 01:10:43.124
YOU CAN STILL WALK
THE SAME TRAIL,

01:10:43.125 --> 01:10:45.791
BUT ALWAYS YOU CAN FIND IT...

01:10:45.792 --> 01:10:47.791
NEW THINGS.

01:10:47.792 --> 01:10:52.416
FOR EXAMPLE, IN 2004
WAS FINDED NEW TYPE MONKEYS

01:10:52.417 --> 01:10:54.792
IN THIS FOREST.

01:11:53.792 --> 01:11:56.792
[rooster crows]

01:12:04.584 --> 01:12:07.791
- I HAD NO CLUE
ABOUT ECOLOGY

01:12:07.792 --> 01:12:08.917
OR ECOTOURISM

01:12:08.918 --> 01:12:12.416
OR BIODIVERSITY
OR SUSTAINABLE DEVELOPMENT.

01:12:12.417 --> 01:12:14.791
I DIDN\'T KNOW ANYTHING
ABOUT ANYTHING.

01:12:14.792 --> 01:12:17.750
I FELT I\'M THERE
TO SAY THANK YOU

01:12:17.751 --> 01:12:21.041
AND THANK THEM
FOR SAVING MY LIFE,

01:12:21.042 --> 01:12:22.374
BUT I LEARNED.

01:12:22.375 --> 01:12:24.791
I EDUCATED MYSELF
ON ALL THESE ISSUES.

01:12:24.792 --> 01:12:25.917
I WENT TO WASHINGTON, D.C.,

01:12:25.918 --> 01:12:27.958
RAISED A MILLION
AND A HALF DOLLARS,

01:12:27.959 --> 01:12:29.500
BROUGHT IT BACK
TO THE REGION,

01:12:29.501 --> 01:12:30.708
\'CAUSE I WASN\'T AN N.G.O.

01:12:30.709 --> 01:12:32.625
I WAS JUST REPRESENTING
THE PEOPLE.

01:12:32.626 --> 01:12:33.791
AND I GOT THE MONEY.

01:12:33.792 --> 01:12:35.875
SO IT WAS THE BANK,

01:12:35.876 --> 01:12:38.791
INTER-AMERICAN DEVELOPMENT BANK
FINANCING A VILLAGE

01:12:38.792 --> 01:12:39.875
IN THE MIDDLE OF THE AMAZON.

01:12:39.876 --> 01:12:41.459
THIS WAS UNPRECEDENTED.

01:12:54.250 --> 01:12:57.374
- HAVING THE ONLY TRIBE
CHOOSING ECOLOGY,

01:12:57.375 --> 01:12:59.541
CHOOSING SUSTAINABLE
DEVELOPMENT,

01:12:59.542 --> 01:13:01.500
\'CAUSE THERE WAS
THE LURE OF THE LOGGERS

01:13:01.501 --> 01:13:03.541
AND THE LURE OF THE OIL
EXPLORATION

01:13:03.542 --> 01:13:05.791
AND THE GOLD EXPLORATION,

01:13:05.792 --> 01:13:08.958
BUT WHEN THEY WENT RESORT,

01:13:08.959 --> 01:13:11.166
THEY WENT ECOLOGICAL SUSTAINABLE
DEVELOPMENT.

01:13:11.167 --> 01:13:13.875
THE ENTIRE AREA TURNED
TO BE A NATIONAL PARK,

01:13:13.876 --> 01:13:17.458
THAT MADIDI NATIONAL PARK.

01:13:17.459 --> 01:13:20.459
[instrument rattling]

01:14:10.876 --> 01:14:13.791
- I WAS VERY NAIVE
WHEN I STARTED TRAVELING.

01:14:13.792 --> 01:14:16.666
I THOUGHT OF MYSELF
AS THIS SORT OF

01:14:16.667 --> 01:14:17.917
INVISIBLE TRAVELER

01:14:17.918 --> 01:14:22.583
WHO HAS NO IMPACT ON THE PLACE
THEY VISIT.

01:14:22.584 --> 01:14:24.124
AND SO IN A WAY,

01:14:24.125 --> 01:14:27.249
MY IDEA OF TRAVELING
WAS A VERY SELFISH EXPERIENCE.

01:14:27.250 --> 01:14:28.250
TOTALLY SELFISH.

01:14:28.251 --> 01:14:30.291
JUST... IT WAS JUST ABOUT ME

01:14:30.292 --> 01:14:32.791
GOING TO THESE PLACES
AND BEING AFFECTED, INSPIRED,

01:14:32.792 --> 01:14:34.291
AND MEETING PEOPLE,

01:14:34.292 --> 01:14:36.791
AND THAT\'S SOMETHING I HAD
TO REFLECT UPON

01:14:36.792 --> 01:14:38.542
AFTER MY TRIP IN AFRICA.

01:14:43.792 --> 01:14:46.124
- THE STORIES
THAT I BRING BACK NOW

01:14:46.125 --> 01:14:49.583
ARE LESS ABOUT TRYING TO SHOW
I\'VE BEEN TO PLACES

01:14:49.584 --> 01:14:51.374
THAT HAVEN\'T CHANGED.

01:14:51.375 --> 01:14:53.291
IT\'S ACTUALLY COMING BACK
WITH STORIES

01:14:53.292 --> 01:14:55.625
ABOUT WHAT THOSE PLACES
ARE TODAY,

01:14:55.626 --> 01:15:00.249
IN ALL OF THEIR MANIFESTATIONS.

01:15:00.250 --> 01:15:03.500
IT\'S OVER 30 YEARS SINCE I WAS
AT KOH PHANGAN,

01:15:03.501 --> 01:15:07.374
AND THERE ARE KOH PHANGANS
AND HAAD RINS ALL OVER THE WORLD

01:15:07.375 --> 01:15:09.791
THAT HAVE SUFFERED
THE SAME PLIGHT.

01:15:09.792 --> 01:15:11.917
BUT YOU KNOW WHAT?
IT\'S NOT TOO LATE.

01:15:11.918 --> 01:15:14.208
MAYBE FOR SOME PLACES IT IS,

01:15:14.209 --> 01:15:18.959
BUT IT\'S NOT TOO LATE
FOR OTHER PLACES.

01:15:19.000 --> 01:15:22.000
[jet engine roaring]

01:15:39.959 --> 01:15:43.082
- I WAS ONCE IN A HOTEL
IN PERU

01:15:43.083 --> 01:15:47.374
WITH MY GIRLFRIEND
AT THE TIME,

01:15:47.375 --> 01:15:50.249
AND THERE WERE A BUNCH
OF TRAVELERS,

01:15:50.250 --> 01:15:51.875
AND THEY STARTED TELLING
THE STORY

01:15:51.876 --> 01:15:53.791
ABOUT YOSSI GHINSBERG

01:15:53.792 --> 01:15:56.833
AND THE SURVIVAL STORIES
ABOUT YOSSI GHINSBERG.

01:15:56.834 --> 01:15:59.541
THE STORY WAS, YOU KNOW, LIKE,
MUCH BIGGER,

01:15:59.542 --> 01:16:02.875
AND I FOUGHT JAGUARS
WITH MY FINGERNAILS, AND...

01:16:02.876 --> 01:16:04.082
AND WE\'RE JUST SITTING THERE

01:16:04.083 --> 01:16:05.833
AND LISTENING AND LISTENING
AND LISTENING,

01:16:05.834 --> 01:16:09.791
AND FINALLY WHEN THEY FINISHED,
I JUST PULLED OUT MY PASSPORT,

01:16:09.792 --> 01:16:13.082
AND I GAVE THE MAIN STORYTELLER,
I GAVE HIM MY PASSPORT.

01:16:13.083 --> 01:16:15.374
HE OPENED MY PASSPORT.
HE LOOK AT IT.

01:16:15.375 --> 01:16:18.458
THEN HE RAISED HIS EYES,
WITH TOTAL AWE,

01:16:18.459 --> 01:16:21.041
ASKED ME,
\"HOW DID YOU GET THAT?\"

01:16:21.042 --> 01:16:23.000
[laughing]