How can we keep Maine’s world-famous fishing communities employed and…
Native Table
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Chef Sean Sherman worked for years in Italian, Spanish, Japanese and modern American restaurants. Then one day he realized his own heritage – Lakota Sioux – had a lot to teach him about foods that would nourish himself, his customers, and the Earth.
Today, Sherman and his business partner Dana Thomson (Dakota) are exploring their Native cultural heritages by re-creating pre-colonial menus – meals that use no dairy, no wheat, no sugar. At their Minneapolis restaurant Owamni and at their Natifs Food Lab, they are bringing back to life the food ways of their not-so-distant Sioux ancestors and showing that by combining the past with the best in modern farming practices, we can create more sustainable and ethical food systems.
Their customers and the food industry have responded enthusiastically: In 2022, Owamni won the prestigious James Beard Award for Best New Restaurant.
Citation
Main credits
Williams, Sue (screenwriter)
Williams, Sue (film director)
Williams, Sue (film producer)
Other credits
Editor, Christina Kelly; director of photography, Sam Shinn; score, Carmen Borgia.
Distributor subjects
No distributor subjects provided.Keywords
[00:00:01.04]
[relaxed guitar music]
[00:00:13.03]
- We cut out all colonial ingredients,
[00:00:14.09]
so there's no dairy or flour, sugar.
[00:00:18.04]
- So we're one of the first and only
[00:00:19.08]
indigenous restaurants in the country.
[00:00:21.04]
We're completely decolonized,
[00:00:22.09]
so we don't have any beef, pork, chicken,
[00:00:25.00]
no dairy, gluten or soy.
[00:00:27.08]
[people chatting indistinctly]
[00:00:35.08]
- [Sean] It's understanding
Native American agriculture,
[00:00:37.07]
seed saving, plant identification,
[00:00:41.01]
understanding how you can
grow with your environment
[00:00:43.04]
and utilize all these plants for food
[00:00:45.04]
and medicine and crafting.
[00:00:47.05]
[intense electronic music]
[00:00:49.05]
- [Voiceover 1] The way we
farm today will not sustain
[00:00:53.04]
human civilization as we know it.
[00:00:56.01]
- [Voiceover 2] There's
not gonna be enough water,
[00:00:57.07]
and there's not gonna be enough land.
[00:01:01.09]
- [Voiceover 1] We are
never going to replace
[00:01:04.02]
traditional agriculture,
but we sure can innovate.
[00:01:08.09]
- [Sean] We can learn
how to at least pivot
[00:01:10.06]
and to work with this changing world.
[00:01:15.00]
[music continues]
[00:01:28.08]
I grew up on Pine Ridge Reservation.
[00:01:31.01]
We were Lakota, just like
a lot of people there.
[00:01:33.06]
I remember us harvesting choke cherries
[00:01:36.09]
throughout my childhood,
[00:01:38.04]
and I can just remember the
smell of the choke cherry sauce
[00:01:41.02]
cooking on the stove.
[00:01:42.04]
We hunted a lot growing up.
[00:01:44.04]
We got a lot of grouse and pheasants,
[00:01:46.08]
and ducks and geese when in season.
[00:01:50.02]
- [Sue] What are you getting here?
[00:01:51.02]
- This is just balsam fir,
and the sap is so good
[00:01:54.08]
because it's antiseptic,
[00:01:56.01]
so you can use it like superglue on cuts.
[00:01:58.07]
And it's also, it's a fire
starter even when wet.
[00:02:10.05]
One of my first big jobs here
[00:02:12.06]
was at a fresh pasta place
in South Minneapolis,
[00:02:16.07]
and just started to learn
a lot starting from there.
[00:02:21.00]
And then my career just took me through
[00:02:22.07]
all sorts of twists and turns--
[00:02:23.09]
so, running Spanish restaurants,
[00:02:25.04]
running Japanese restaurants,
[00:02:26.08]
running, just, American
bistros and farm-to-table
[00:02:30.03]
kind of things, and it was pretty fun.
[00:02:34.09]
[gentle instrumental music]
[00:02:41.03]
I guess I was just very curious
[00:02:42.06]
about the Indigenous
community that was there.
[00:02:45.09]
It reminded me a lot of growing
up with my Lakota family,
[00:02:50.03]
kind of like my distant cousins.
[00:02:51.07]
And then all of a sudden
realized that I knew very little
[00:02:54.06]
about my own heritage food,
even though I discovered so much
[00:02:57.03]
about so many other cultures,
especially European cuisines.
[00:03:02.06]
My ancestors would have had
a really large knowledge
[00:03:05.05]
of plants and how to harvest
them, when to harvest them,
[00:03:08.00]
which parts to harvest.
[00:03:09.09]
So I had to try to figure
out what was still out there,
[00:03:12.08]
understand, like, what were things like
[00:03:14.03]
before European influences.
[00:03:17.04]
All the choke cherry blossoms.
[00:03:19.07]
- Oh, they smell so good.
- Yeah.
[00:03:25.01]
[Dana exhales]
[00:03:27.07]
- It's incredible.
[00:03:29.02]
My mom talked a lot about
our Indigenous background,
[00:03:33.05]
because her father spoke fluent Dakota.
[00:03:36.01]
She also was very much into being outside,
[00:03:40.07]
hiking through the
woods, planting a garden
[00:03:44.02]
and understanding the
wild foods all around us.
[00:03:48.06]
This is so good for you.
[00:03:50.04]
Not only is it nutritious,
[00:03:52.00]
but you can make a poultice with it,
[00:03:55.02]
put it on your cuts and
it'll heal it right up.
[00:04:01.08]
Working at Target was like
going to college for me.
[00:04:04.06]
I never thought I could go
to college for a single day.
[00:04:07.09]
I came from abject poverty,
and it was a miracle
[00:04:10.08]
that I even graduated from high school.
[00:04:12.04]
To have that access to the network
[00:04:16.02]
of these brilliant
business minds at Target
[00:04:19.00]
was such an incredible experience for me.
[00:04:23.07]
- Plants, you know,
there's so much to plants.
[00:04:25.04]
It's understanding there's
so much Native American
[00:04:27.03]
agriculture that was happening.
[00:04:28.04]
I spent quite a few years to identify,
[00:04:29.08]
what are Indigenous foods?
[00:04:31.03]
Not only looking at the past,
but looking at the future.
[00:04:34.02]
How can we bring this knowledge
[00:04:35.06]
to where we are right now today?
[00:04:39.04]
Oh yeah, it's one of the ramps.
[00:04:40.07]
You wanna try the ramps?
[00:04:42.04]
I worked hard to get to the
point where I actually formed
[00:04:45.09]
my own company called the Sioux Chef,
[00:04:47.07]
which is the play on words
using Lakota Sioux, S-I-O-U-X,
[00:04:52.02]
that everything just took off.
[00:04:54.02]
[gentle electronic music]
[00:04:56.09]
- As I started eating
[00:04:58.05]
this bison meatball soup and a salad,
[00:05:02.07]
and he started talking about his vision
[00:05:05.05]
and about the concept behind the company,
[00:05:08.05]
I am not exaggerating
when I say that I felt
[00:05:11.06]
electrical currents running
through my entire body,
[00:05:14.00]
the bottoms of my feet, into the Earth.
[00:05:16.06]
I felt like my ancestors
were there with me.
[00:05:23.05]
- [Sean] And then Dana came
on and just started help
[00:05:25.02]
project managing and
that helped out a ton.
[00:05:28.04]
We were able to grow so much.
[00:05:31.09]
- The Sioux Chef business
is about uncovering
[00:05:35.09]
the Indigenous foods of North America.
[00:05:38.08]
Specifically with the word "Sioux,"
[00:05:40.07]
we're talking about Dakota
foods, Dakota Lakota foods,
[00:05:44.03]
and the Anishinaabe here in Minnesota.
[00:06:02.00]
- [Sean] Our goal is to be a
center point to help create
[00:06:04.06]
more Indigenous food operations,
[00:06:06.02]
working directly with tribal communities.
[00:06:07.08]
- I've seen over the
course of the last year,
[00:06:09.05]
you have just kept refining
and making it better
[00:06:11.08]
and learning ways to make
it more, more authentic.
[00:06:14.09]
And yeah, you're the specialist now.
[00:06:17.07]
- No, I try, I, I want
to learn more, you know?
[00:06:20.04]
- Me too!
[00:06:21.03]
- Everyday, more better. So.
[00:06:24.09]
[gentle instrumental music]
[00:06:30.01]
- There's just so much great
Indigenous-produced food
[00:06:32.02]
coming out of this place right here.
[00:06:33.08]
It's great that they're able
to do this for the community
[00:06:36.01]
and that they keep the
store pretty well stocked
[00:06:39.04]
with some really good food.
[00:06:44.06]
- [Matthew] So for some reason,
for the first year ever,
[00:06:46.08]
our Siberian kale...
[00:06:49.05]
- This is definitely a case,
with this sort of thing,
[00:06:52.00]
with greenhouse-type protection,
[00:06:53.04]
where it's modern technology.
[00:06:55.07]
And to the extent it's being applied here,
[00:06:57.08]
it's being married with
traditional values.
[00:07:01.03]
So, the value of stewarding
the land that you use to grow
[00:07:04.05]
the food on for your kids
for seven generations, right?
[00:07:08.07]
- My mom, her family history
[00:07:11.05]
is from the Shakopee Mdewakanton.
[00:07:13.09]
My grandpa, Clem Felix,
raised his 10 children here.
[00:07:19.08]
- I guess I was always
kind of curious if, like,
[00:07:21.06]
our families knew each
other because, like,
[00:07:23.07]
being around the same area.
[00:07:26.02]
- Do you live right around here?
[00:07:27.04]
- Yeah, I actually live like
maybe a half mile from here.
[00:07:29.08]
- Okay.
[00:07:33.00]
- Diabetes runs rampant
throughout Indian country.
[00:07:35.07]
It's just everywhere.
[00:07:37.04]
So I often think about that,
if that was maybe a path
[00:07:41.09]
that would happen for me
or any of my siblings.
[00:07:44.03]
And, I don't know.
[00:07:45.02]
I kind of credit this farm a lot for that
[00:07:48.06]
we're not all diabetic like
a lot of our ancestors were.
[00:07:53.02]
So this is burdock.
[00:07:54.07]
But burdock, you go to any
really fancy restaurant
[00:07:58.05]
and they might have burdock root on there.
[00:08:01.04]
You gotta dig, like these ones
[00:08:03.00]
probably go down about a good two feet.
[00:08:05.01]
But those roots are really
good, almost like a carrot.
[00:08:09.01]
- [Sue] What did you grow up eating?
[00:08:11.00]
- [laughs] A lot of canned food.
[00:08:12.07]
I think I'm, like, one of the last ones
[00:08:14.07]
from this reservation
that remembers commods.
[00:08:17.09]
That was when the government
would give us the box
[00:08:19.08]
and it'd be all the mushy stuff,
[00:08:22.01]
and the can that just said "Pork" on it,
[00:08:24.09]
had a little outline of a pig.
[00:08:27.01]
When you grow up just eating
that, it's not a far jump
[00:08:30.00]
to just keep eating processed foods.
[00:08:32.06]
And so it's kind of a
challenge to get people
[00:08:36.04]
to eat a lot of these,
like, more fresh stuff,
[00:08:38.06]
but at the same time, the
ones that are shifting over
[00:08:41.04]
are noticing stuff within a generation,
[00:08:44.00]
within their lifetime.
[00:08:47.00]
[gentle instrumental music]
[00:08:54.05]
- "Owamni" means "the
place of swirling waters."
[00:08:56.07]
The beautiful limestone
waterfalls with four beautiful
[00:09:02.02]
islands that was much, much more beautiful
[00:09:04.03]
before colonization,
[00:09:06.01]
that were incredibly sacred
to the Sioux community.
[00:09:11.06]
- And the other one was the squash
[00:09:13.01]
because it takes some time,
and I feel like a scoop
[00:09:16.00]
would just be, like, scoop.
[00:09:17.02]
- Like, maybe smash it down a little bit,
[00:09:18.09]
because you also have to
scoop that elk on there?
[00:09:21.06]
- We should add some
special tacos sometime,
[00:09:24.00]
just on that special list.
[00:09:26.07]
Just as we get more and more efficient.
[00:09:31.05]
We know where all our food's coming from.
[00:09:32.08]
It's really super hyper local.
[00:09:34.02]
We purchase from Indigenous producers.
[00:09:35.08]
We know what's available,
[00:09:36.06]
and we just write our menu around that.
[00:09:38.08]
We don't have to deal
with everybody else's
[00:09:40.08]
supply chain issues, trying to get food
[00:09:42.08]
from all over the country here.
[00:09:48.02]
Our ancestors are proud tonight,
[00:09:50.03]
because we're doing something different.
[00:09:51.09]
We're putting health on the table,
[00:09:53.09]
we're putting culture on the table
[00:09:55.02]
and we're putting our
stories on the table.
[00:09:57.01]
- We plan also to assist on
helping restaurants like ours
[00:09:59.09]
open all over North America,
by other Native people
[00:10:02.09]
seeking access to their
own ancestral foods.
[00:10:05.09]
So thank you so much.
[00:10:09.06]
- [Sean] Returning that
Indigenous education
[00:10:11.02]
is such an important part,
but also just being very aware
[00:10:13.03]
of what's going on with the environment.
[00:10:17.04]
- We think about climate change a lot.
[00:10:19.02]
Humans sort of have this
bizarre thinking, just like,
[00:10:22.07]
"We're on the Earth to take
whatever we can get from it,
[00:10:25.02]
"and we're here to do whatever we want!"
[00:10:28.07]
The fact is that we are of the Earth.
[00:10:31.00]
We were from the Earth, we
were created by this planet.
[00:10:34.09]
The earth is literally
what we were made from.
[00:10:38.05]
- [Sean] We just have to be way smarter
[00:10:39.09]
with what we're doing
[00:10:40.07]
with all of this resource
that we need to survive,
[00:10:43.05]
because we're just
creating deserts out there,
[00:10:45.06]
and we have to make some changes.
[00:10:48.00]
I think that if we're in
tune, we can learn how
[00:10:50.04]
to at least pivot and to work
with this changing world.
[00:10:54.01]
But we're going to have to be very aware
[00:10:56.00]
and understand that things
are going to be different.
[00:11:03.01]
[upbeat instrumental music]
[00:11:22.08]
[music continues]
Distributor: Bullfrog Films
Length: 12 minutes
Date: 2022
Genre: Expository
Language: English
Grade: 7-12, College, Adults
Color/BW:
Closed Captioning: Available
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